'79 Kick Down & Timing

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Jan 10, 2004 | 04:46 PM

sharpshooter

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Joined: Apr 2003

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From: Chalmette, LA

'79 Kick Down & Timing

I have a couple of questions for all you Ford geniuses out there. First where can I find the bar or cable to hook up my automatic transmission kickdown at a reasonable price for my 1979 F-150 with a 302 and C-6 tranny? Is is a steel bar like on the early 80s models or is it a cable? I have the linkages on both my carburetor and my transmission and all I need is the one missing piece to have my kick down working.

I timed my 302 this morning and I have it at 8 degreed before top dead center. I do have a 280H Competition Cam in it and I find it to be running a little "throaty". A little too rough. Everything is new on the motor (except for the distributor which came off another truck but I have new rotor, cap, plugs & wires) and I have everything according to the specifics so I am little puzzled on why it is rough and not the smooth rumble I have in my '84 F-150. I checked and even double checked everything but maybe I missed something and hopefully someone out ther can help me. I appreciate any feedback you can provide because I am stuck. Thanks.

Jan 10, 2004 | 04:53 PM

fozzy

More Turbo

Joined: Jan 2001

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From: New England

its a steel bar. You could make one, or go to a junkyard. Seems like I have mine sittin around somewehere here. Its for a C6

Jan 10, 2004 | 06:39 PM

ivanribic

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Joined: Jul 2003

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From: Spokane, WA

Sharpshooter, the rod is like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2452469405

That's for a 460 though, don't know size wise if they're all the same or not, someone here will be able to tell us I'm sure.

I got rid of my rod and went to a Lokar cable which runs about $50 but works fantastic. Plus if you ever want to add a carb spacer, higher manifold, etc. you don't have to fiddle with extending the rod. Those are also available on ebay if you're interested and they're very easy to install.

Ivan

Jan 11, 2004 | 08:40 AM

sharpshooter

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From: Chalmette, LA

That Lokar cable sounds great because I did install a 1 inch spacer on my aluminum intake manifold. Where can I get one of those Lokar cables? Thanks for the feedback and I never thought about eBay but I would rather purchase it from an automotive parts dealer. Do you think the cable works as good as the rod and do they last as long? How long have you had yours? Thanks again.

Jan 11, 2004 | 10:26 PM

ivanribic

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Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 11,945

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From: Spokane, WA

I've only had my cable for about 3 or 4 months but Lokar has a super reputation and they are very well built. It's all stainless and if I remember right they coat the inside of the cable with teflon or something similar to keep it smooth. It works just as well as the rod did. When I put on the new manifold and spacer I raised my carb about 4 inches (total) so the kickdown rod wouldn't reach. A few of the guys on this forum suggested I try the Lokar cable and I love it.

The cable bracket bolts right to the transmission, the other end is adjustable for any length you need. Lokar also sells a bracket you can mount on the manifold for the cable but this may not be necessary depending on your setup.

If you want to check it out try these links. As I said, you can also get them off of ebay for a few $$ less, brand new but be sure you get the actual Lokar cable and not the "Lokar Like" junk.

JEGS - http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...19&prmenbr=361

EBAY - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2453078400

Lokar Site for info - http://lokar.com/images/pdf/throttle..._kickdowns.pdf

Jan 12, 2004 | 09:15 AM

beartracks

Lead Driver

Joined: Nov 2000

Posts: 6,623

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From: Albuquerque

I'd try a little more initial timing.

Jan 12, 2004 | 09:19 AM

teschwab

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Joined: May 2002

Posts: 375

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From: nc

sharpshooter, i understand that you have checked everything twice. do you have the carb adjusted to a good initial a/f ratio. i would recommend a vacuum gage for this task. if you have already performed this and have the idle set close to what you prefer. i would consider a little more time, perhaps 10-12 degrees. i think the additional time may help the rough idle to a point. you will need to adjust idle and a/f each time the timimg is changed. i would do these adjustments with the engine warm.