Spindle Locking Pin Removal
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Spindle Locking Pin Removal
So, I have been trying to remove the locking pins from the front spindles of my '66 F100. There must be a technique better than what I'm trying of driving the pin out with a brass hammer. I've left the nut on the pin to try to minimize damage to the threads but so far, the pins have not budged on either side. I;ve been whacking them pretty hard. Does heat help? and is the best technique to drive them out with force and replace with new pins?
Also, are the stock front upper coil spring mounts available as a replacement part. Mine are rusted and thinning and the driver's side is cracked.
One more question. While I have been dissecting the front suspension, I noticed that the front I beam has a bow while the rear is straight. Is this by design or am I seeing the result of some idiot using the front I beam as a tow rope attachment point?
Thanks for any advice.
Mechanicsburg
Also, are the stock front upper coil spring mounts available as a replacement part. Mine are rusted and thinning and the driver's side is cracked.
One more question. While I have been dissecting the front suspension, I noticed that the front I beam has a bow while the rear is straight. Is this by design or am I seeing the result of some idiot using the front I beam as a tow rope attachment point?
Thanks for any advice.
Mechanicsburg
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
You can use heat on the pins. I'd actually heat the area around the pin. You should get new pins with your king pin set. If not, get new ones because by the time you get them out, they'll be toast. A good penetrating oil may help, but you'll have to let it soak and do it's work. You have to drive it out in the opposite direction of the treaded side.
The axle may have been wacked at one time, but this is how they align the front wheels by bending the axle one way or the other. As long as it isn't way out on alignment and bent big time, I wouldn't worry about it.
Barry
The axle may have been wacked at one time, but this is how they align the front wheels by bending the axle one way or the other. As long as it isn't way out on alignment and bent big time, I wouldn't worry about it.
Barry
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
Yes, these pins or wedges can get really tight. Assuming that you want to keep them (may be the case that you are doing a front spindle swap, in which case, you can reuse the 66 king pins in your newer 72-78 disc spindles, assuming the old king pins are still good) Of course, as Barry notes -- new king pin sets come with new wedges, so if you are just replacing the kings, well just hammer the h*ll out of the old ones and use new ones.
I had trouble too, and I needed to save the old ones. Keep a nut on the threads, as you have been doing. Make sure the nut is a little bit further out than the end of the threads. Don't hit it directly, but use soft steel rod or large bolt. Use a realatively heavy sledge, and have a friend hold or help. If a few serious blows do not move things, then apply heat. Do NOT heat the wedge itself -- instead heat the axel around it.
Worst case scenario, you'll need new stuff. Good luck.
I had trouble too, and I needed to save the old ones. Keep a nut on the threads, as you have been doing. Make sure the nut is a little bit further out than the end of the threads. Don't hit it directly, but use soft steel rod or large bolt. Use a realatively heavy sledge, and have a friend hold or help. If a few serious blows do not move things, then apply heat. Do NOT heat the wedge itself -- instead heat the axel around it.
Worst case scenario, you'll need new stuff. Good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Elizabethtown, PA
As for the I-beam question, if one is bent it should be pretty obvious in the camber of the front wheels. When you have it together, on the flattest piece of ground you can find, try using a level vertically next to the wheel. Measure the distance between your level at absolute vertical and the top of the tire on both sides. It should be reasonably close (this is far from accurate). If the I-beam is bent, it will be REAL obvious.
Those spring perches are not available. They also would have to be from the same truck as you have, not the later 67- trucks as they are different (spring height). Might be easier to just reinforce what you have.
Those spring perches are not available. They also would have to be from the same truck as you have, not the later 67- trucks as they are different (spring height). Might be easier to just reinforce what you have.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for all the help. I got the locking pins/wedges out using the suggested technique and a BAH. I will go ahead with my plans to reinforce my current spring perches and check the wheel alignment when all done.
I'm now struggling to get the king pins out. I think a press is in order.
Thanks again.
mechanicsburg
I'm now struggling to get the king pins out. I think a press is in order.
Thanks again.
mechanicsburg
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
King pins come out best with BAH as well. Don't use a punch, but instead, a large bolt or short length of "sucker rod" diameter (bout 3/4") maleable metal. Make sure when you are beating on them that you do not slip around in the axel and bugger up the threads at the ends of the axel (where the grease caps screw on). Heat, pentrating spray all are helpful.
A trick I heard and used once was to jack the vehicle up, then let it down over a rod standing up from the floor, so as to "push it up" from below. This will give you several hundred pounds of upward force on the king pin. BE CAREFUL -- if comes out all at once, all sorts of bad things can happen, so make sure your jack/lift/blocks (NOT CINDER BLOCKS) are still under the truck, so that whe can fall at most 1/2". Once you have gravity and the weight of the vehicle working for you, you can apply heat and some downward pounding to the axel. Worked for me.
Are you doing disc brake swap, or just replacing the kings? Hope you are going with bronze -- they are much better.
A trick I heard and used once was to jack the vehicle up, then let it down over a rod standing up from the floor, so as to "push it up" from below. This will give you several hundred pounds of upward force on the king pin. BE CAREFUL -- if comes out all at once, all sorts of bad things can happen, so make sure your jack/lift/blocks (NOT CINDER BLOCKS) are still under the truck, so that whe can fall at most 1/2". Once you have gravity and the weight of the vehicle working for you, you can apply heat and some downward pounding to the axel. Worked for me.
Are you doing disc brake swap, or just replacing the kings? Hope you are going with bronze -- they are much better.
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