How much frame rust is acceptable?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, VA
How much frame rust is acceptable?
The F-350 I just purchased has heavy rust where the frame ends join the front bumper area. Also some light rust along the frame. Is this a serious problem? I have heard that frame rust is unrecoverable yet many trucks especially work vehicles have rust on their undersides.
I got the truck for thousands below retail hoping I could fix most problems. Was I wrong? Is this fixable? When does frame rust become a lost cause?
Thanks,
Reg
I got the truck for thousands below retail hoping I could fix most problems. Was I wrong? Is this fixable? When does frame rust become a lost cause?
Thanks,
Reg
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
I dont see the year /age of the truck listed, and that will be a more prominent factor when determining rust. Take a large flat blade screwdriver to the worst looking spot on the frame and "dig down " until you get to solid metal. Most of the time it is just surface rust, but how deep your screwdriver will cut in, will let you know how much good frame you have left. I would advise doing some web research on rustproofing and getting that on your frame, per instructions on the product label, to impend further rusting. good luck
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
2001, wow, unless it was stored in saltwater, I cant imagine the big F350 frame having any structural weakness from rust being that new, just surface rust I would imagine, all imo, but be safe and get to the metal to see,
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally posted by Greg 79 f150
I dont see the year /age of the truck listed, and that will be a more prominent factor when determining rust. Take a large flat blade screwdriver to the worst looking spot on the frame and "dig down " until you get to solid metal. Most of the time it is just surface rust, but how deep your screwdriver will cut in, will let you know how much good frame you have left. I would advise doing some web research on rustproofing and getting that on your frame, per instructions on the product label, to impend further rusting. good luck
I dont see the year /age of the truck listed, and that will be a more prominent factor when determining rust. Take a large flat blade screwdriver to the worst looking spot on the frame and "dig down " until you get to solid metal. Most of the time it is just surface rust, but how deep your screwdriver will cut in, will let you know how much good frame you have left. I would advise doing some web research on rustproofing and getting that on your frame, per instructions on the product label, to impend further rusting. good luck
Once you have determined it is surface rust (which most likely it is), clean off all the rust you can, treat it with a rust converter (Metal, Ready, Rust Mort, & etc.) and paint it with a good rust prevention paint (Zero Rust, Por15, & etc.)
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally posted by afinepoint
Thanks,
Will investigate. Is one product any better than another?
Reg
Thanks,
Will investigate. Is one product any better than another?
Reg
Wellll, I suspect it depends on who you talk to...Rust Converter
I have use both Metal Ready (by the Por15 people) and Rust Mort. They both work but I prefer Metal Ready because it does not leave a sticky film. I do use Rust Mort though, where no additional topcoating (paint & etc.) will be applied.
Paint
I have used both Por15 paint and Zero Rust. They both provide excellent protect against rust but I prefer ZR because of a number of factors. You can get it in rattle cans, there are no isocyanates, it's more convenient to use, it has an almost umlimited shelf life, and it's a whole lot cheaper. Matter of fact, I use ZR exclusively on my undercarriage work. A top of the line product.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
FYI about rust encapsulator paints. In a recent issue of "Auto Restorer" magazine, someone did a real time test between POR-15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. He simulated extreme weathering over several months, the kind that would take us several years. The end result was that Eastwood was superior to the POR-15 in coverage and longevity. I was surprised, but the facts of the test were hard to deny. It covered better and easier and lasted significantly better at the end of the test. It's slightly cheaper also. The test sold me and I'm a hardcore skeptic!
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