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I'm trying to modernize my 89 Ford (Standard Cab) stereo system. I have the High and Mid range taken care of with the front set of speakers. I need the lower end though. I was thinking of plugging 6x9's in to the rear output and placing them behind the bench seat. I was wondering if this would handle my levels better. I'm assuming, if I was to use 6x9's, they would sound better in a box, but there's not a whole lot of room back there. Another thing is whether a 45wx4 head unit could power 6x9's or would I need an amp. I imagine that they would be fine, but I'm not at all sure. Any feedback would be helpful.
a head can power 6x9s
look for speakers with a high sensitivity like 92db 1W/1M or higher.this means that if you feed the speaker one Watt of power, and measure the sound pressure level 1 meter from the cone, there should be 92 db of sound.all the 6x9s I have heard did sound better in boxes.
you'd get beter bass with an amp and sub setup though
Originally posted by Galen I'm trying to modernize my 89 Ford (Standard Cab) stereo system. I have the High and Mid range taken care of with the front set of speakers. I need the lower end though. I was thinking of plugging 6x9's in to the rear output and placing them behind the bench seat. I was wondering if this would handle my levels better. I'm assuming, if I was to use 6x9's, they would sound better in a box, but there's not a whole lot of room back there. Another thing is whether a 45wx4 head unit could power 6x9's or would I need an amp. I imagine that they would be fine, but I'm not at all sure. Any feedback would be helpful.
Galen, Is there a particular reason you want to use 6x9s? Do you have a set already or some such thing? If not, I certainly wouldn't recommend them for your "low end". If you intend to put speakers in a box and you don't have a lot of room, go with a pair of 8 inch subs. Or even 6 1/2s. There are some 6 1/2s that are true subwoofers. You could use a passive low pass filter. It's not the ideal set-up, but, in my opinion, either of those would be better than 6x9s.
The only reason I was thinking 6x9's is because of the small amount of room. I haven't purchased anything but the head so far. Would I get good sound without woofers and just subs? Or should I do both? I probably have a 6 or 7 inch clearance at the base of the seat and then it tapers off to the top; a void trianglular prism, if you will. All I'm running (more like "walking") right now is a head unit and two 6" 2-way speakers. So, basically, it's a little kid's boom-box. It does, however, handle the mid and tweet rather nicely.
if you're happy with the sound now, a sub would firm up the bottom end nicely. you could prolly fit 8" or 10" subs in boxes behind your seat, in truck boxes.you will need an amp though.
you could look into bazooka tubes also.
The shape you mention is the "wedge" shape of truck boxes that are made specifically for the area behind your seat. Depending on how low in hz your front speakers go, you may be fine with a subwoofer set-up. If you have the fronts running full range without any bandpass crossover on the mids, they probably go to about 80 hz with no problem. Add a sub to this with a properly matched amp and you're in business.
In regard to the HU amp; HU amps are not well suited for high quality, high volume use. If they were there would be no need for separate amplifiers. So a lot depends on your listening habits. The power supply in a HU is different from separate, dedicated amps, and is unable to supply enough voltage in extended, high volume cases. And the HU power ratings are grossly overrated. A HU rated at 45x4 is in no way the equal of an amp of reasonable quality that is rated the same. If you do use the HU amp for your front speakers I would recommend not getting too carried away on the subs because they can overpower your fronts and throw the sound out of balance. But, like I said, it depends on your budget, listening habits, etc. Everyone is different in how much importance they place on audio, so it's a personal choice.
I think I'll add 6x9's as the rear (powered by the head) and later add an amp and a sub. How does that sound? And when it comes time to add the amp and sub, do I match the amp's wattage with the continuous wattage of the sub? Also, if I was to get two subs, would I need to get an amp with twice the original wattage or just make sure it has two channels? For example, if I was to get a 300w (just an off-the-wall figure) 2-channel amp, what speakers could it power? And thanks for your help, you two.
Originally posted by Galen I think I'll add 6x9's as the rear (powered by the head) and later add an amp and a sub. How does that sound? And when it comes time to add the amp and sub, do I match the amp's wattage with the continuous wattage of the sub? Also, if I was to get two subs, would I need to get an amp with twice the original wattage or just make sure it has two channels? For example, if I was to get a 300w (just an off-the-wall figure) 2-channel amp, what speakers could it power? And thanks for your help, you two.
If your plan is to just power the subs with your amp, then I recommend buying a mono amp that is specifically made for sub use. With the limited space of a regular cab you may want to stick with one sub in a truck box. You also will need room to mount your amp. Match your pieces properly. There are so many variations of sub-amp possibilities. Subs come in single voice coils, dual voice coils, 2 ohms, 4 ohms, 8 ohms. It is crucial to have a box of the correct size and type for the sub you choose. And for whatever amp you choose you will need to get a matching sub as far as power rating and ohms that will allow your amp to work at it's optimum. One word of warning about amps' power ratings. There is no industry standard that has to be followed. So manufacturers can say what they want. So beware. Also, don't fail to use correct cables and wiring.
G-
I have a '94 f 150 flare reg cab. I bought the 6.5"dual set up from walmart here in Texas for 15.00 yes it is normally 25.00 look at the wal mart website I am pleased.with the sound and I do have the amp In addition i also bought the 99.00 Pioneer system from them and I love it! It sounds great besides, it is not my primary vehicle, but when I am working I can drown out very nicely while I am on the concrete parking lot commonly referred to as an expressway .hereare the Walmart parts for them both it is not alot of money but relative for what you are trying to achieve Pioneer Auto CD Player With 4 Speakers DEHSP033
Audiovox Car Stereo Speaker System VB12
also look up http://www.crutchfield.com/ put in your particulars and you can decide how far you are willing to go for sound .If anything elseyou can see a variety of choices.
Now that I understand a little more about wattage and amps and such, I can ask a more exact question. Can a 45 x 4 head unit power four 100w RMS speakers?
After learning from what you guys had to say, I think I figured out my game plan:
Head Unit - 45 x 5 (Already Purchased)
Main Right and Left - 6.5 in 2-way [Help on the Watts]
Rear Right and Left - 6x9's 3-way [Help on the Watts]
Sub - 200w amp and sub (8" - 12")
Originally posted by Galen Now that I understand a little more about wattage and amps and such, I can ask a more exact question. Can a 45 x 4 head unit power four 100w RMS speakers?
Any amp can power any speaker. However, giving the speaker what it truly needs to perform at it's best will need some planning. If you intend to stick with the HU permanently, I would say get something that doesn't need a whole lot of power. That HU amp will probably put out about 15 or 20 watts of CLEAN power. If you have plans to add an amp later, then I would step up to some better speakers and power them with the HU till you upgrade. There are decent speakers that only need about 50 watts RMS to really sing. My advice is to look at speakers in your budget's range and the wattage you need and listen, listen, listen. Remember that high wattage ratings on speakers doesn't necessarily mean they will sound better.
After learning from what you guys had to say, I think I figured out my game plan:
Head Unit - 45 x 5 (Already Purchased)
Main Right and Left - 6.5 in 2-way [Help on the Watts]
Rear Right and Left - 6x9's 3-way [Help on the Watts]
Sub - 200w amp and sub (8" - 12")
What do you guys think? Anything I should change?
If you concentrate on quality, you can put together a decent system with what you mention.
A Head Unit that is 45x4 only puts out about 17-20 watts RMS power per channel, so I would definately recommend finding speakers with lower RMS ratings!
6x9's are great speakers but don't get an amp unless it has a crossover and don't put more power to them then the rms rating on the speakers magnet. they will fit i had the same truck an i had 8's in a 200 dollar coated truck box
Originally posted by f100guy 6x9's are great speakers but don't get an amp unless it has a crossover and don't put more power to them then the rms rating on the speakers magnet. they will fit i had the same truck an i had 8's in a 200 dollar coated truck box
By this statement I'm guessing you have blown speakers in the past, but not from too much power, probably not enough power, which causes distortion.
A lot of people wonder if too much amplifier power can burn up the speakers. What damages speakers most of the time is distortion, not power. If the speakers have the proper crossovers and are not distorting, then it is really hard to blow them. A bigger amp just gives you the opportunity to go to higher volumes without distortion. Get the biggest amplifiers you can afford and your car's electrical system can handle. More power means louder sound, but most importantly, cleaner sound.
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