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Old Jan 8, 2004 | 10:54 PM
  #1  
Phil056's Avatar
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Question Motorcraft plug question

Hey guys,
I have a quick question. I ordered motorcraft oem plugs from an online company. Model #AWSF22E for my 1998 5.4L XLT. My question is that I just received these plugs tonight to realize they gave me model # AGSF22WM. I looked into motorcraft.com and these models start with year 2000. Am I correct to assume that the heads are different on the 2000's then my '98's. and that I shouldn't try using these model plugs when I do my tune-up? My plugs need a change, 110k on my motor and the pinging is starting to become more consistant in most driving conditions.

Thanks, Phil
 
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 05:12 AM
  #2  
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Pull a plug. I think the new ones you have have more threads on them. I don't think they are any longer, though. Should be safe.

V10 and V8 use the same plug and if I remember correctly that was the difference. More threads. I used to have side by side pics of the two plugs somewhere...

_____________

On edit...

here's the pic



Use the new one unless someone else here can give you a reason not to.
 

Last edited by Monsta; Jan 9, 2004 at 05:14 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 09:17 AM
  #3  
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More threads....less likely to back out by themselves??? That would be my guess.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 11:04 AM
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Thanks for the replies buzzard and Monsta.
Monsta, your pics have convinced me that they should work without a problem. I'm going to let you guys know what happens after I do the tune-up. But I need to wait until this artic air here in Long Island, NY subsides it's way toooo cold to do anything outside.

Thanks again,
Phil
 
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 06:10 PM
  #5  
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I can't tell from the picture, but if the reach and heatrange are the same, then I agree with Monsta.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 06:27 PM
  #6  
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Hey Phil,,,
This is one cold night here on LI, huh??? Where on the Island are ya?? I am in Levittown.

BigMan69
 
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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Hey Bigman,
I'm in Smithtown, and currently it's 6 degrees out!
Big difference from last week, but there is no way I'm attempting to do the job in this weather. Keep Warm!

Phil
 
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 10:41 AM
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With the longer threads, isn't the plug going to seat deeper in the head. Any chance the piston could contact the end of the plug? $$$$$$$$$ I know plug depth has some affect on the combustion process. Just curious..

Dave

97 Eddie Bauer 4WD,5.4L 3.73LS
77EB 302 and a lot more
 
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 01:12 PM
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Originally posted by mtn boomer
With the longer threads, isn't the plug going to seat deeper in the head. ..... I know plug depth has some affect on the combustion process. Just curious..
If you look at the picture, you'll see that the seats are at the same place on each plug. There is no difference in seating depth.

Just the number of threads on the plug is different. Even the heat range is the same.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 10:58 PM
  #10  
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I see your point MONSTA although I don't think Phil or us guys with the early heads will benefit from the additional threads. I'm guessing that the early heads only have threads near the bottom of the plug hole(combustion chamber side).The 22E plug has a unthreaded portion just below the seat area that is the same diameter as the major diameter as the threads. I don't see how a 22E plug would fit in a head that was designed for the 22WM plug type. Are there different heads for the later models as I have assumed? I could sure see why the 22E plug style would tend to have thread pulling problems as mentioned in other posts.
I just did the plug change on my 97 and it wasn't something I care to do again for a while.

Dave
 
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil056
Hey guys,
I have a quick question. I ordered motorcraft oem plugs from an online company. Model #AWSF22E for my 1998 5.4L XLT. My question is that I just received these plugs tonight to realize they gave me model # AGSF22WM. I looked into motorcraft.com and these models start with year 2000. Am I correct to assume that the heads are different on the 2000's then my '98's. and that I shouldn't try using these model plugs when I do my tune-up? My plugs need a change, 110k on my motor and the pinging is starting to become more consistant in most driving conditions.

Thanks, Phil
Phil,
How did those AGSF22WM sparkplugs work out in your 5.4L engine? I am facing the same replacement issue in my '98 Club Wagon, with 5.4L engine. It has 75K miles, and has been pinging. There are probably other issues, but I'd like to know if you cured your pinging problem by merely changing your sparkplugs.
Modern engines are so much more complicated than old ones, so perhaps a plug change might even fix a pinging problem. My timing is OK. I'm running a little lean, and am getting some stalling upon decelerations to very low speeds.
Thanks for your recollections.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:10 PM
  #12  
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JohnPeter,
I forgot about this post. But to answer your question, I had no problems with the plugs and it's been over a year since they have been installed. None of the plugs have decided to leave the head yet!
As far as the pinging goes, it did go away for a while, but I've had it returning lately. I replaced the DPFE sensor, thinking it was shot since I have over 135k miles on mine. It didn't cure the ping, I'm still using 87 octane from Mobil b/c of the crazy gas prices on Long Island, NY. I was thinking about going to sythentic oil not only for the benefits but to see if it would cure the ping. Luckily for me, my wife drives it 95% of the time and she doesn't notice it.
As far as your issues about stalling, have you done a search on the IAC (Idle air control ) unit? Have you ever cleaned your mass air flow unit? I posted a while back on how I went about it if you do a search. How about cleaning your throttle body butterfly valve?
There are so many things to try, if you need to ask me details please feel free!

Phil
 
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:13 AM
  #13  
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As far as your issues about stalling, have you done a search on the IAC (Idle air control ) unit? Have you ever cleaned your mass air flow unit? I posted a while back on how I went about it if you do a search. How about cleaning your throttle body butterfly valve?
Thanks for the reply! I'm changing the plugs. The awfully-situated number 3 and 4 plugs remain, and I will have to remove hoses to get them. What a pain. I'm using the AGSF22WM type, available at AutoZone, as they are platinum, etc. Their long thread is irrelevant, as the tapered shoulder that meets the cylinder head seat is "in the right place."
I've gotten six of the AWSF22E plugs out, and I'm surprised at how good they look after 75K miles of mostly short-haul driving (I consider this "severe duty"). #5 plug was the first to come out, and its gap was wide, at about .065", so I expected the same on the others. To my surprise, the other five that have come out are gapped at about .056" so their hardly any cause for my problems...but the plugs should be changed, anyway.

I had to change my DPFE sensor a month ago, for cause. It had suddenly gone bad, underreading the exhaust flow, thus causing the computer to "over juice" the EGR valve. This rendered too much EGR flow, leading to conspicuous engine sputtering at low RPM accelerations. Was conspicuously observable on a vacuum gauge (suspicously high vacuum), which I placed at the head of the EGR valve, for observation while driving the vehicle. Ironically, the error code was P0401, "insufficient EGR" flow. After DPFE replacement, I have, again ironically, received P0402, "excessive EGR" flow. So I'm suspicious that my new DPFE sensor, though better than the old one, is causing problems. Nevertheless, the readings on the same vacuum gauge appear reasonable now, operating in the linear range of operation, rather than pegging to the high reading as with the original DPFE sensor.

I have received prior excellent instructions on cleaning MAF sensor, and I bought the Electronics Parts Cleaner that will leave no residue, but I did not clean the MAF for reason that there seemed to be no "smoking gun." OTOH, the MAF is delicate, and I hesitate to mess with it without good reason. I'm tempted, though, as my stalling problem must be solved.

The Idle Air Control subject has arisen, but I have no idea what to test, other than to disconnect it, as suggested in my service manual. This should result in noticeable change of idle behavior. THAT is hardly a "pinpoint test," IMHO, and obviously will "mess up the patient." Like, disable the oxygen mask for a heart-bypass patient, and see if he turns blue! Yeah, right. So any elaborate advice on the IAC would be appreciated.
I have exposed the throttle-body butterfly, and see sooty appearance. I doubt the cleaning anything there would matter, and risk propelling gunk into deeper places. I'd appreciate any experience shared, here, too.
Sorry you're still hearing a ping. In the old days, we blamed that on carbonization of piston heads, which caused a higher compression ratio, which, in turn, necessitated higher octane fuel. Hey, I was never an engine enthusiast, but I have learned a few things since my adolescence, which is starting to look rather distant in my "rear view mirror." Working on cars brings back LOTS of memories, some technical, and others personal. Maybe that's why Pep Boys plays (or used to play) oldies music for its shoppers.
Thanks for your help.
John
 
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:07 PM
  #14  
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Thank God for this post! I have the spark plug problem tonight, I didn't know if I could use the new plugs or not.

Thanks for the pic Monsta!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 10:02 PM
  #15  
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As far as the plugs go, Ford probably realized (in a moment of genius), "Why make two different plugs when Plug B works just as well in Plug A's engine??" Thus, the 22E plugs were most likely superseded to the 22FM.
 
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