The other day I put a steering wheel cover (the one's with the vinyl strap you wrap around the cover) but I forgot to cut the excess strap. Well, when I was driving I noticed that the strap was tangled (pretty tight) right behind the steering wheel. (duhh)
Ever since then the horn has not been working. I guess it got so tight that it disconnected the horn connection.

My question is, how difficult is it to remove the steering wheel and fix this?

Also, is there a way to check this without removing the steering wheel?

Thanks,
TA

'71 f-100, 300-6

 

Under the wheel is a small copper contact brush that makes the horn work. Sounds like you got it ripped loose with the steering wheel wrap.

Removing the wheel is not too difficult. A simple steering wheel puller/balancer puller will get it off. Loosen the nut, pull wheel. There you have it.

The wire under the column that works the horn is the blue/yellow stripe. That is if they did not change it(I dont think they have). Unplug the harness at the bottom of the column, GROUND the blue/yellow wire and see if the horn BLOWS. If it does, then the wiper under the wheel is the culprit. Not sure how ready available parts are for that. Might have to have someone here donate one

Larry

 

Another method for pulling the wheel, one that I have used dozens of times. Loosen the nut and back it out till flush with end of the column shaft. (top surface of nut even with top edge of shaft) Pull up on the wheel firmly while striking the nut/shaft squarely with a fairly heavy hammer, say 16oz. You don't have to hit it real hard, let the weight of the hammer do the work. The wheel will come right loose. I have done this better than thirty years and never messed one up or had one that wouldn't come off. Of course if you have puller that will work go ahead and use it if you like. But if your skills are good, the hammer method is faster and plenty safe enough. I learned it early from probably the best mechanic I have ever known. I have never used a puller to pull a steering wheel, not even once, even though I have a number of different types. The same actions will work on many things that have a similar situation.

When you're ready to put the wheel back on put some anti-sieze compound on the splines first, male and female. You'll thank yourself next time.

I have a couple of those little spring loaded brushes in the top drawer of my toolbox. Nobody's getting them. I went without a horn because of them for quite awhile and it's not going to happen again. Dennis Carpenter's has them. Oof. But, kind of a unique part so what are you going to do.

 

My '67 was missing that dern little thing. No horn. I proceeded to make a faux air horn arrangement. I used a small momentary pushbutton mounted in a sheetmetal bracket. A small metal tab hanging down would push on button when I pull the chain. The chain is mounted back to about the middle of the window. It works quite well and keeps from accidentally hitting that blasted horn ring. Something I do CONSTANTLY(luckily it's not hooked up).

It functions the same as my horn in the Mack....so I dont have to "think" about where it's at. I'm used to it.

Larry

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I plan to work on it this weekend.
By the way.. it's a 3 on tree, would that be a poblem?

Thanks again,
TA

 

Shift type doesn't make any difference as far as I know. There are two of those little brushes in there, your string probably dragged through one of them while getting wound up. Fragile little buggers. I don't recall which of them maybe more likely to "get it" in that situation.

Roger

 

If you havnt started yet a word of caution to you. Be gentle when removing the horn ring. I chipped the plastic tabs on mine when I was removing it to replace the turn signal switch and fix my own horn, and it took a long time to find a replacement part for it I am in agreement with the other guys, you probably broke the little button inside there. If you did and can't find a replacement try the wreckers, thats wheere I got mine. Good luck to you.

 

When you remove the horn button, unplug the wire to the horn so it doesn't honk, and then push in and turn the cap a little counterclockwise until the tabs match the slots and it will pop loose. Only takes about 1 hour worth of turning to the left. Never force those. The tabs are plastic, and on a 30-35 year old truck, they are brittle. Replacing is reverse.. I had to buy a plastic "horn retainer plate" when the guy aligning my front end broke it off last summer. He had to remove the steering wheel to move it a notch, and didn't know the proper horn cap removal method. MK

 

My plain jane 68 just has the button in the center. No ring, which has always been fine with me. I unhook the positive on the battery, push the button in, turn it counterclockwise a bit and it comes springing right off. Seems to me it has a stop to keep it from going too far left, don't remember. Anyway there's nothing to it.