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Hey guys, I have heard several of ya'll talk about timers for your engine block heaters. Where did you get it or did you make it out of something. I need one cause our utility bills are getting high.
Personally, most timers you get from your home center are going to be 15 amp, but in reality that won't be a big deal because your outlets in your house/garage are only rated for 15 amps.
The ones I checked out are all rated at least 1750 watts, more then enough to power the 1000 watt block heater on my truck.
Just make sure it has a 3 prong grounding plug in it. Walmart and Home Depot have them for 10 bucks. Walmart had a nice digital one for $15
My problem is the heater is popping the GFCI in my garage. Someone suggested trying a normal outlet without gfi so I will do that.
And while you are doing all this remember to get a good (at least 12 guage for 50 feet or less) extension cord. A small wire size will kill your block heater way before it's time.
If you look at your wire to the truck and all the ice and snow is melted around it, then it is to small of a conductor in it.
Mine is a NOMA for outside, works good. You can also have a block heater that starts and stop by itself, like a thermostat it will turn on when the antifreeze is at -5 Celcius, and turn off when warmer. I do not know who sells them but it is a good system.
If you feel ambitous and have the money you could pick up a Intermatic 24 hour timer and remote bulb thermostat from somewhere like grainger, mount them on the wall in the garage, hardwire the feed and outlet for 15 amp. Extend the remote bulb capillary outside and have a system that only heats the block at a cretain time period and only when its cold enough. All you need to do is remember to plug it in. Definatly use a #12 extension cord as its good for about 25 amps and will reduce the voltage drop at the heater. System would cost about $135.00 US.
I could dig up grainger part numbers if anyone wants to know them.
Man, I like that idea. I think I will start to compile that info. If you got time, fire out what you think part for the remote bulb timer is. I can get the timer bout anywhere.
I am just trying to get it set in my head how to wire it. Does the line go to the timer first or to the bulb? I presume the bulb, but then the timer wouldn't have power to run, therefore it must be the timer first, then the bulb then the outlet. Right?
Mike, use a Grainger part number 4E047 remote bulb tstat, $47.70 in their book and a Grainger 24 hour timer P#2E021 at $48.15in their book. Tstat is rated 22 amps and timer is rated 40 amps.
Set timer to close contacts(go on) at a time about 3 hours before you need the truck. or as you like.
The typical amperage draw of a 1000 watt heater is 8.3 amps at 120 volt. I could probably write all this up with real drawings and put it in the artical section.