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Ever since the Winterized diesel came back in November at the Amoco I always try to fuel at, I have had horrid mileage. I drive fairly conservatively, always around 70-75 interstate and not much stop and go. Even tanks I have driven on completely unloaded the whole tank I was lucky to get 12 MPG, with the tank topping off method. (My tank somehow miraculously holds over 40 gallons, even though I am fairly sure it's a 38 gallon tank?) Pretty much all at once I added my Tymar Intake, changed oil using Rotella T Synth, and starting using Diesel Kleen (grey jug) at the 150 gallons per jug treatment level. My last 2 tankfuls have yielded 16.7 MPG, and 17.1 MPG respectively, the first tank having a slight disadvantage as I pulled an empty stock trailer about 40 miles with it. The best part is the cold starting. I had been using the Pennzoil Long Life 15w-40 since they have had it at Rural King locally for 20 bucks for 4 gallons. Even on warm days (40+) it turned over for maybe 1 or 2 seconds before starting. With the Rotella synth it starts as soon as the key is turned...I mean RIGHT NOW. (I attribute this to the oil because I had been running Powerservice winter additive beforehand, so I doubt it is the Diesel Kleen making it start so fast...) I don't think the intake has too much to do with my mileage and starting, but it could have a tiny improvement in mileage over what I was getting. It got down to -4 last night, and first thing this morning when it was a whopping 3 degrees out, I started my truck after the "Wait to Start" light went out, and it fired instantly. Oil pressure came up instantly. I didn't plug it in last night because I wanted to see if it would start in this kind of weather in case I ever had to park it somewhere and wouldn't be able to plug it in. That way I could know what to expect. The way things are going, I might just save the electricity! Needless to say I am quite pleased with these small changes...
Strjock, I started using Rotella syn. last change and I too can say the same thing. No matter how cold it is, it starts as soon as I turn the key. How much did you pay for the rotella?
Originally posted by F0rdF0rever Strjock, I started using Rotella syn. last change and I too can say the same thing. No matter how cold it is, it starts as soon as I turn the key. How much did you pay for the rotella?
Originally posted by jharvey3 Hey guys a question on switching to synth....Do you do a complete flush if so how? what filters are you using and what interval are you changing at?
Thanks
John
No I didn't do a complete flush--shouldn't be any different than any other change. One thing I always do (probably stupid) is after the old oil stops draining, I close my Fumuto valve (oil pan drain plug replacement, makes changing oil SO much less messy)pour a fresh quart of 15w40 (conventional) in, the crawl back under and open the valve. You'd be amazed at how black that fresh quart of oil is coming out! I think it just grabs what junk is laying on the bottom of the pan and gets it out of there. Then I fill it up (15 qts) of synth, change filter (I use the Motorcraft, $9.XX at Walmart) and go! There is no need at all for a flush, and over time, the synthetic will actually serve to clean the gunk from your motor thats accumulated while you have been using dino oil. This change I am going to swap filters at 5,ooo miles, top off to fill back up from losing the oil that was in the filter, then do a complete change at 10,000. I will do oil analysis at both 5000 and 10000 miles to check to make sure the oil is ok for that amount of time. DOn't see any reason why it wouldn't be, lots and lots of guys doing it..and it makes the more expensive synthetic oil pay for itself.
i have 124,000 on my 1999 stroker and im a bit leary on doing the change over to snythetic at this point, how many miles were on your unit when you did the conversion and are you seeing any leaks, snythetic oil is great stuff in my book but my worry is getting one or multiple leaks because the synthetic oil will as stated above clean old residue out and in turn cause a potental leaks in the event the sludge way plugging it. If my motor had less than 50,000 miles i would have done it already but im the third owner of the truck and its already well past that piont.bad or good im sure all of us would be interested on when the change over happened( at what milage) and if there were any leaks, anyone who has done a conventional to synthetic changeover please reply with the milage and current standings a far as leaks are concerned.
Does anybody here do a 10000 mile oil change? I would love to switch to Synthetic, but the cost makes my butt pucker up! Wouldn't be so bad if I could double the length of time between changes
I am a new user I have been watching and learning from all the experts on here. I have been reading for some time now how the PSD and cold weather don't get along. I am here to tell you thats not true. I live where it only gets slightly cold we get temp to 45 below quite freq and I have never not had my truck start on the very first time. True I plug in every night but if I go to the store and not plug in for several hours it still starts on the first try.
I am following this post and I am wondering if it is true that it is bad to use a synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I have a 97 f350 Crew Cab with 205000. It runs good and strong, however I bought it last year, and just assumed they used regular oil. Is it potentially bad to switch at this point? I have no leaks, and it doesn't burn oil, so I don't want to create any new problems.
Also was thinking about a bypass filter system as well. Any feedback on what sytem is good? Thanks a lot.
Ok so does anybody think that switching to synthetic on a '95 with 94,000 miles on the clock is a problem? Also has anyone used the Fram quick drain valve, if so is it good, bad or just ugly?
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