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adjusting valve train

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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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adjusting valve train

Is there a quick way to adjust the rockers?

I mean, if I see that the intake is full open on cylinder A, is it easy to say that cylinders x,y and z are closed and can be adjusted?

I want to adjust evreything tonight, before dropping the truck off tomorrow for dyno tuning the Demon carb. He reccomended torquing the adjusting screw to 18ft-lbs instead of trying to measure the lash or guesstimating turns after the pushrod stops spinning loosely. I'd rather not turn the crank to adjust each valve as was described in the Cam install instructions.

I guess I'm asking for the quick and lazy adjustment technique, if one exists. Not sure if any of this made sense ?

BTW, I'm running Crane hydraulic roller lifters and a crane hyd roller cam with Erson adjustable rockers arms/shaft/stands.

Thanks,
 
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 06:57 PM
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No way Greg!!! There is no Ft lb method. That will trash your enigne. Some adjusters might not even turn under 18 ft lbs and others may go way too far. With small cams you can put the engine in two differnt positions and adjust half the rockers each time. I can't remember the method but it doesn't work with big cams. How big would take a mathmetician to figure out. I do it one at a time man. I would keep the guy away from your valvetrain and let him work wonders on your carb. He sounds like he is thinking of the pedestal type rockers which the FE of course never had.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 08:23 PM
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Well, that throws a monkey wrench in my plans....

It made sense to me. But then I'm no expert. It seemed more precise than this "tighten until the pushrods is hard to turn and then another 1/2 turn" method. It sure has not worked well so far. I've been back in a few times already to readjust these darn things.


Also, the other day I was driving it and running it up to about 5000RPM in first. It would start to chatter a lot at that higher RPM. Since I shouldn't have valve float until like 6500rpm, is this pinging? My MSD advance should be full in at like 3000RPM, so why would there be any difference between 3000 and 5000rpm?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 09:41 PM
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If your not pinging at 3000 then you shouldn't be pinging at 5,000. Take one of your old crappy valve covers and cut the very top out just above the adjuster nuts and just big enough to get a socket on. Then you can run the engine at 500rpm or so and see where the clatter is coming from and adjust accordingly. I have had a slight valvetrain chatter ever since I rebuilt it but it only does it at low RPMS. I think I have a bad lifter. I need to get an old valve cover and do the same. I cut too much off the last one and it gets oil everywhere. Exhaust leaks sound a lot like valve clatter. You really ought to investigate it. On my trip home from Indiana I heard a sudden loud lifter noise and thought I was screwed. I have never heard a header leak like that but that is what it was.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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Went in and tightened the back rockers on the passenger side as they were loose again. Seems to have helped. But there is still some engine speed related noise under there. It may be an exhaust leak torturing me :-) But it sounds a bit more mechanical, and trust me I am familar with exhaust leaks sounds.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 10:49 PM
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I thought I was familiar too man! They sometimes are completely identical.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 07:39 AM
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Going to Colvin today. We'll see what all he finds wrong today..

It sure hates to start in this cooler weather. Fires first try, goes to a nice smooth high idle for a few seconds then drops to a pathetic stmubling low idle and usually dies, depending on how cold it is. If I feather the throttle, I can keep it going, but it sounds terrible. It takes a few minutes before it seems that it's firing on all cylinders.

BTW, the advance at 3000+rpm seems to be right at the "T" in BTC, That seems appropriate to me, what do you think?
 

Last edited by gtex; Jan 5, 2004 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 07:44 AM
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Mine does the exact same thing. I am hoping the MSD ignition takes care of it. Mine acts like the carb has leaked fuel into the intake all night but it hasn't. It starts up just like you said and then start the real rough idle and then your eyes start burining. Choke adjustment makes no difference. Idle mixture is lean if anything.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 08:02 AM
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I guess I added this after you responded.



BTW, the advance at 3000+rpm seems to be right at the "T" in BTC, That seems appropriate to me, what do you think?






PS Moderator, the time stamps look a bit funny.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 08:36 AM
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Yeah that might be right. I would have to look. I just set my initial and add 36. Can't wait until tomorrow when my MSD stuff gets here and then I can set it for +20 instead. How do the timestamps look funny?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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regarding timestamps..it says your last post in this thread was at 2:36pm on the 5th.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 11:03 AM
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Hmmm.... its showing up right on for both of us on my end. Might check your settings and ensure your time zone is set correctly. It may be a bug as Ken is doing some upgrading/improements.
 
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