My question is there anything special that iI have to do to prep zero-rust to paint over. I'm doing frame and underside of 66 F-100 and would like to use this stuff on some areas of the exterior of the truck. used por-15 in the past but you guys have sold me on zero-rust. This is a frame -off and plan on epoxy primer and base-coat paint. Would like to know what to expect or any prep hints.

 

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ZeroRust is a great product. From what I have learned on the other paint/body forums it is designed primarily for those "hidden" areas like frames, behind panels, rockers, so on, for maximum rust protection. But, I have found the concensus of opinion is that, to put it on the outside of a restore that will be to -the- metal stripped anyway, is kind of a added unnecessary step, under urethanes. After much research and Q & A, I was advised the best way for painting restores, is to get the exterior metal bare ( mechanical strip seems to win over chemical) use etch primer, then epoxy, 2K primer/surfacer, base and clear. On my truck where I still had some small rust pits, I converted them with the highly recommended convertor Picklex 20 (dont etch over it tho) then epoxied the spots and then used 2 k primer/surfacer. I mechanical stripped the inside of my 79 8ft bed floor (lotta of rust) P20 and epoxied it, works great. good luck

 

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Greg is right. ZR is designed to be a top (finish) coat, not a prep coat. I use it for areas like undercarriage and inner fender wells. By the way, my ZR rep tells me, the closer ZR is to bare metal, the better ir performs.

Take this with a grain of salt
Several years ago, I used ZR as a base coat (over the Bondo work) prep paint. I did this because of several factors. They included:

1) I didn't know any better.
2) My rig was a "work in progress".
3) I didn't have an air compressor.
4) I didn't have a paint spray gun.
5) ZR performed well.
6) ZR came in rattle cans.

Over a 1 1/2 year period, I worked on a 86 F250 that I used as a daily driver. I worked the dents outs and primed with rattle can primer, all the while, driving in the rain. About 1/2 way through the restoration, I discovered lacquer primer isn't waterproof when the rust started appearing. After stripping and dealing with the rust, I decided I needed something different than lacquer primer. Someone suggested ZR. I gave it a try and it worked.

To make a long story short, the rig was painted, with the ZR remaining my base coat. Prior to the top coat, the ZR was scratched and sealed with epoxy primer. I'm happy to report the paint job is as solid as the day it was applied.

Would I do the same again? No. Would I do it again, if it was the option I had available. Yes.

Again, this is not the recommended usage of ZR. It's just something that worked for me. Maybe I just got lucky.

 

I've got the cab to bare metal and was thinking of using it omly where I removed the old seam cauking like roof and rain gutter before putting in new seam sealer . Always use picklex 20 and epoxy primer but didn't want to have a reaction and do it over again. I've used por-15 like this in other restos with no problems but this will be first use of zero-rust Thanks guys!