Bed rust repair help
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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Bed rust repair help
Just wondering if anyone had any pointers or suggestions as what to do with this bed rust. I have never really messed with anything like this. My plans are to eventually get the truck painted but not sure if I should paint the bed or have it Line-X coated. Either way, I think the bed needs some attention and prep work before hand, mostly done by "this guy" because it is really the only rust on the truck, and I want to start with getting it fixed.
But, I don't know what kind of rust converters to use or how to go about it, i.e. sanding, wire wheel, grinder etc. I have all of these tools and air compressor etc. I even have a portable sand blaster if needed.
From what I can tell, the truck was re-painted once all over and the inside of the bed. Then the bed was painted over a second time later on. I don't see any through holes or anything, just surface rust and paint that has started to peel in a few spots which is the second coat. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
KOT390
But, I don't know what kind of rust converters to use or how to go about it, i.e. sanding, wire wheel, grinder etc. I have all of these tools and air compressor etc. I even have a portable sand blaster if needed.
From what I can tell, the truck was re-painted once all over and the inside of the bed. Then the bed was painted over a second time later on. I don't see any through holes or anything, just surface rust and paint that has started to peel in a few spots which is the second coat. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
KOT390
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Rockville, Ct.
To be honest I would use the best thing you have( which is also the easiest ).
If the sand blaster works good that's what I would use. If it takes it down to bare metal then all you need to do is primer and paint. You won't need to worry about rust abatement except maybe in tight areas. I think most guys around here would say POR 15 is the best stuff for treating rust but you need other treatments to prep the surface for paint after using it.
If the sand blaster works good that's what I would use. If it takes it down to bare metal then all you need to do is primer and paint. You won't need to worry about rust abatement except maybe in tight areas. I think most guys around here would say POR 15 is the best stuff for treating rust but you need other treatments to prep the surface for paint after using it.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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Those are some good points 72CC428, I could try the blaster and then just use some primer on it. What do you think a good second option would be, just in case the blaster I have doesn't work as well as I thought it would?
Gary, I had thought about taking the bed off and doing something to the underneath side, but there again, I have never done any kind of work like that so I would just be taking it as it goes. The truck was undercoated at one point but now a lot of that undercoating has started flaking off in places. I thought about scraping and power washing the underside with it off, then re-coat it or paint it or something. I'm still looking for someplace to paint it, but thought if I could get the worst part of the bed work done, it may save me some money at the body shop. Thanks for the suggestions guys
KOT390
Gary, I had thought about taking the bed off and doing something to the underneath side, but there again, I have never done any kind of work like that so I would just be taking it as it goes. The truck was undercoated at one point but now a lot of that undercoating has started flaking off in places. I thought about scraping and power washing the underside with it off, then re-coat it or paint it or something. I'm still looking for someplace to paint it, but thought if I could get the worst part of the bed work done, it may save me some money at the body shop. Thanks for the suggestions guys
KOT390
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Rockville, Ct.
I would say second option would be the only option I have. Wire wheel it then some type of rust treatment, whatever primer is compatible with the rust treatment chosen then paint and bed liner. That's what I'm going to do unless I can find someone with a blaster.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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Ok yeah, that's about what I was thinking. Wire wheel could possibly be just as time consuming as the little blaster I have anyway. So, I will start with the blaster and see how it goes. Then be mindful of the primer if I have to use POR-15 or something, then a liner. Just as well to do that because I will use the bed. Not going to be a show truck. So, I appreciate the input. Thanks
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Joined: Mar 2017
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The bed on mine looks in similar condition to yours.
I'm still on the original paint job though.
I cleaned off the heavy rust, primed some spots and installed a rubber bed mat last fall.
I was thinking of taking it a step further when the rainy season stops with a roll-on bed coating, but am still on the fence about it.
I'll be anxious to see how your turns out, so post some pics of the finished product.
I'm still on the original paint job though.
I cleaned off the heavy rust, primed some spots and installed a rubber bed mat last fall.
I was thinking of taking it a step further when the rainy season stops with a roll-on bed coating, but am still on the fence about it.
I'll be anxious to see how your turns out, so post some pics of the finished product.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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The bed on mine looks in similar condition to yours.
I'm still on the original paint job though.
I cleaned off the heavy rust, primed some spots and installed a rubber bed mat last fall.
I was thinking of taking it a step further when the rainy season stops with a roll-on bed coating, but am still on the fence about it.
I'll be anxious to see how your turns out, so post some pics of the finished product.
I'm still on the original paint job though.
I cleaned off the heavy rust, primed some spots and installed a rubber bed mat last fall.
I was thinking of taking it a step further when the rainy season stops with a roll-on bed coating, but am still on the fence about it.
I'll be anxious to see how your turns out, so post some pics of the finished product.
KOT390
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Ok how I would do this.
I would wire wheel & brush the rust, does not need to be to bare metal and should not for what I use to work, also remove any loose paint, sand the painted areas and make sure no more paint will flake off and give it tooth.
I then would use Eastwoods encapsulator
Eastwood Black Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust
As said it sticks better to rust than bare metal so as long as you get off the loose flaking rust and any dust then go to town.
under side of hood frame I did, I also did the under side of the fenders of the same car before painting.
After that if I was thinking of bed liner I would use Rust-Oleum coating
You can leave it or paint over it if you want.
I did 2 coats top & bottom of my truck floor after I replaced the floors, rockers, cab corners, and rear door posts.
I don't know if I will paint over the top yet as I still need to paint the inside of the cab.
BTW if doing surface rust on the body before body work & paint and to kill rust inside doors and door pillars I have other things I have used.
Dave ----
I would wire wheel & brush the rust, does not need to be to bare metal and should not for what I use to work, also remove any loose paint, sand the painted areas and make sure no more paint will flake off and give it tooth.
I then would use Eastwoods encapsulator
Eastwood Black Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust
As said it sticks better to rust than bare metal so as long as you get off the loose flaking rust and any dust then go to town.
under side of hood frame I did, I also did the under side of the fenders of the same car before painting.
After that if I was thinking of bed liner I would use Rust-Oleum coating
You can leave it or paint over it if you want.
I did 2 coats top & bottom of my truck floor after I replaced the floors, rockers, cab corners, and rear door posts.
I don't know if I will paint over the top yet as I still need to paint the inside of the cab.
BTW if doing surface rust on the body before body work & paint and to kill rust inside doors and door pillars I have other things I have used.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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Hey Dave. Thanks for posting the pics and info. That is some pretty cool stuff. The Eastwood rust converter. That seems to be about what I was looking for. I could use it on the underside of the bed too, and leave it. I like that idea. I also looked at some different abrasive discs and things I could use along with the wire wheels and stuff. This is all great input. I feel like I have a good direction to go in now. Thanks
P.S. one other question: Is this something that I could coat (spray into, or cram in with a small brush) the bed seam with along the outside with? (The seam that runs right above the "bump") I got some seam sealer to put in it after I knocked all the loose garbage out of it but maybe this would help stop the rust also underneath the bead of seam sealer?
KOT390
P.S. one other question: Is this something that I could coat (spray into, or cram in with a small brush) the bed seam with along the outside with? (The seam that runs right above the "bump") I got some seam sealer to put in it after I knocked all the loose garbage out of it but maybe this would help stop the rust also underneath the bead of seam sealer?
KOT390
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
The Eastwood encapsulator is pretty thin and can be sprayed with a gun if you want.
I used cheap throw away brushes (home depot) when I did the hood, frame you see pictured and the under side of the skin (not pictured) and the under side of the fenders.
For tight areas could use 1/2" or 1" wide brush and 3" or bigger for bigger areas.
BTW I used the same cheap throw away brushes when I did the floor with bed liner to get into tight areas that the 3" wide roller could not reach.
BTW II: Eastwood also has rust & paint remover pads
7 Inch Cleaning / Stripping Disc System
The gray pads I find work the best, the red is a little too fine for my liking.
They also make a 4.5" kit and I have also used ones that fit on a small grinder to get into tight areas.
Gray pad used on half of the hood skin
Dave ----
I used cheap throw away brushes (home depot) when I did the hood, frame you see pictured and the under side of the skin (not pictured) and the under side of the fenders.
For tight areas could use 1/2" or 1" wide brush and 3" or bigger for bigger areas.
BTW I used the same cheap throw away brushes when I did the floor with bed liner to get into tight areas that the 3" wide roller could not reach.
BTW II: Eastwood also has rust & paint remover pads
7 Inch Cleaning / Stripping Disc System
The gray pads I find work the best, the red is a little too fine for my liking.
They also make a 4.5" kit and I have also used ones that fit on a small grinder to get into tight areas.
Gray pad used on half of the hood skin
Dave ----
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I wire wheeled mine good and used blue/white Zolatone on the whole inside the bed.
but it sprays on with base coat H-psi 45-50lbs then 2nd. coat low psi that strings it out.
I first drilled 1/2" holes in each of the corners for water drainage.
Orich
but it sprays on with base coat H-psi 45-50lbs then 2nd. coat low psi that strings it out.
I first drilled 1/2" holes in each of the corners for water drainage.
Orich
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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Ok awesome, thanks for the added information Dave. I think I have a good direction to move in now, and a dreaded task to me, doesn't seem so bad now.
Thanks Orich, I'll check out Zolatone, but as you said. I think drainage holes will be a good idea!
KOT390
Thanks Orich, I'll check out Zolatone, but as you said. I think drainage holes will be a good idea!
KOT390
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2017
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So, I decided to pull this bed off and clean up the underside first and then coat it with something like the Eastwood rust encapsulator. Also clean up the frame and coat it too while I'm at it and then work on the inside of the bed before I put it back on the truck. I decided to clean up the inside as well as I could and just put some primer on it until after the truck is painted, and then have the Line-X done last.
Question: Whats the deal with removing this bed? It doesn't seem like a big deal. I see 6 bolts and the wiring for the tail lights. Can I un-plug the wiring at the rear somewhere leaving the tail light harnesses in place, or do I have to pull it all down from the sockets and out? Thanks
KOT390
Question: Whats the deal with removing this bed? It doesn't seem like a big deal. I see 6 bolts and the wiring for the tail lights. Can I un-plug the wiring at the rear somewhere leaving the tail light harnesses in place, or do I have to pull it all down from the sockets and out? Thanks
KOT390
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Omaha/Elkhorn, NE
Soak those bolts with penetrant beforehand. The big problem is if the bolt turns in the hole. Then you better off cutting them off. Or, just cut them off anyway. New bolts are cheap!
I’m having my bed blasted. I have my own pot blaster, but, it would take me forever! Seems I’m losing my patience the older I get!LOL
I’m having my bed blasted. I have my own pot blaster, but, it would take me forever! Seems I’m losing my patience the older I get!LOL