My buddy has a 2000 F350 PS Dual and we have been fighting the engine quiting problem for some time. Some times you hit a bump in the road and the engine will die and recover. Yesterday he released the parking brake and the engine quit dead as stone! The Check engine light showed briefly. The Dealer is at a lost as to what it might be. He had it in last week for a missing problem and it was determined the wires inside the valve covers on the left bank had came loose. Dealer recliped them and it ran fine for a couple of days. Then it started the engine dying thing again when you hit a slight bump.

Curious to learn if any of you out there have had the same problem.

Thanks

RR

 

my truck died one day, turned out to be a crank position sensor (had to get it towed to ford). i had it replaced, it ran fine for awhile, then it started dieing on me. i targeted the problem to hitting bumps. i would have to pull over, shut it off (the check engine light was on only until i shut it off) and restart it then it would run fine. it hasn't done it since it satrted getting cooler out, i think im going to have it replaced again though, hope this helps

justin

 

Thanks Justin for your reply. The cam sensor was recently changed because it was quitting. Ran fine for a while, power returned to normal and still is. The Crank Sensor we had not thought about. Thanks for the heads up on that area. If you learn an further info on the subject we would appreciate knowing about it. The dealrers he has been too seem have no clue because unless a code shows up they don't know where to start.

Thanks again.

 

Hi guys, I am not really up to speed on the psd yet. Anyway, I did learn if there is chip control added to the ecm (computer) and there is any type of dirt or flakes from cleaning the contacts in the ecm ,, this will cause problems with the operation of the engine. I am only stating this due to the fact you stated that your friend released the parking brake and the engine quit. There may also be a bad connection at the ecm (right next to the parking brake mount) . The ecm is bolted from inside the engine compartment down where driver's fender and firewall come together (10MM bolt) Perhaps loosening it gently removing the connector and reinstalling it will help. Only my 2 cents. Good luck

 

Thanks Bildner....Good thought! We will check that out.

BTW where from NE Pa are you. I was raised in SE Pa, near Kennett Square

 

i would guess a loose chip... been a couple days, any luck?

 

96P we took Bildner's advice above and checked the ecm connections by removing and reinstalling the connector to the ecm. We could not find any thing that would be suspect at this point. We have ran the truck several miles over rough road, slammed doors, released the parking brake several times. I feel like Bildner response has merit so far as the engine has not quit since we removed and reinstalled the ECM connection. Will let you know in a few days if this might have solved the problem. Thank you for your interest and in put.

 

I think we found the source of the engine quiting problem. We begin to gently tap the with the handle of a screw driver the ecm connection and lo and behold the engine quit.

We did as a couple of you suggested pulled the left hand front wheel fender splash planel, disconnected the ECM harness, cleaned the connectons reall good. They all appeared to be good and tight. We reinstalled and are now waiting to see if the situation reocurrs. Thanks for all of your help.

 

I’m having similar issues, intermittently. Occasionally hit a bump or on rough roads (gravel) it stalls and restarts, sometimes I have to put in neutral and restart it. I’ve had it die when shutting the driver door, and have also gotten it to die by bouncing on the truck on the driver running board.
I do get Malfunction Indicator Lamp, WIF, Wait to start indicator. All warning lights go off as soon as the engine is running again.

 

Welcome to FTE, Stephen. It would be best if you start a new thread for what's going on there, a lot of guys will just pass by an old one like this. You most likely have loose connection somewhere.

 

With the CEL, WTS and WIF lights coming on when it dies, it could be some of the wires of the main engine harness shorting where they pass over the driver's side valve cover. Check this area and see if you have worn insulation/bare wires. I could repeat this problem consistently if I put the truck in reverse and gave it a bit of pedal. Engine torque would rock the cover into the harness and short.

 

I noticed a bad ground problem after changing starter, but fixed that right away & truck was running quite beautifully.Then very recently it started with the dying after a ⁰

Curious to learn if any of you out there have had the same problem.

Thanks

 

Check out the underside of the wire harness on the driver side, like in the photos above. Very common for shorts there. And take a look at the battery cables and terminal connections for corrosion.

Also best advice is to start a new post rather than tag onto this old one. Make a new post with the basics of your truck (model year, trans, etc) and say more about the recent problems with your truck.

And a pic of the engine, pics always get more responses. Gives us a peek under the hood like we are there.