Weird Stalling Problem
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Weird Stalling Problem
Ok so yesterday I was testing the holding power of several anchors. A little weird for school project but what even weirder was what my truck was doing. Every time we pulled an anchor the truck would have to work reasonably hard (about a 3000lb pull) right up until the anchor released. When the anchor released and 'popped' forward it would shut off. It would start right back up and run like nothing happened. This was on a warm engine and tranny. All of the gauges read normal and the truck is an automatic if that matters. Any help would be appreciated
-James
-James
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From: MICHIGAN
I hate answer a question with a question but more info needed.
Does the truck shake violently when the anchor lets go?
How long are you pulling on the anchors before it lets go?
Does the check engine light come on?
You might be shaking something that is already loose. THere are couple things that I can think of that will kill the engine if loose.
CPS, cam position sensor Front of engine about 10 o:clock on the crank damper
fuse #9 & 22 under the hood
IDM, injector driver module. Driverside fender well
IPR, Injection pressure regulator. Front of engine hard to get to
Does the truck shake violently when the anchor lets go?
How long are you pulling on the anchors before it lets go?
Does the check engine light come on?
You might be shaking something that is already loose. THere are couple things that I can think of that will kill the engine if loose.
CPS, cam position sensor Front of engine about 10 o:clock on the crank damper
fuse #9 & 22 under the hood
IDM, injector driver module. Driverside fender well
IPR, Injection pressure regulator. Front of engine hard to get to
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No violent shaking, more of a lurch, same idea as torquing the engine against the brakes then quickly releasing the breaks.
The anchor pulls for maybe 30ft in 30-45seconds.
No check engine light
CPS is new as of a month ago or so. the truck runs fine aside from this issue
I will check fuses
Does the IDM need to be grounded. For what ever reason it is just zipped tied to the fender well not exactly a garunteed ground
IPR is new a couple weeks ago. I think I got it right but I will check
The anchor pulls for maybe 30ft in 30-45seconds.
No check engine light
CPS is new as of a month ago or so. the truck runs fine aside from this issue
I will check fuses
Does the IDM need to be grounded. For what ever reason it is just zipped tied to the fender well not exactly a garunteed ground
IPR is new a couple weeks ago. I think I got it right but I will check
Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
It may have a stored code. Have it scanned just might help.
The IDM is grounded through the wire harness but maybe it needs to be secured anyway?
Check the IPR tin nut, But that should throw a code IIRC.
Does the engine suddnely die or begin missing and then stop?
How fast do think you're going when it dies?
I can't think of any reason the engine would just die after a normal torque brake. Strange for sure.
The IDM is grounded through the wire harness but maybe it needs to be secured anyway?
Check the IPR tin nut, But that should throw a code IIRC.
Does the engine suddnely die or begin missing and then stop?
How fast do think you're going when it dies?
I can't think of any reason the engine would just die after a normal torque brake. Strange for sure.
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Originally Posted by Action4478
Stop doing it....
Cuda_Jim The truck dies instantly like the key was shut off
As far as speed: slow, like barely moving, maybe 1mph
Neal, Is there anything that is not solid state in the IDM like a relay or something that would be impacted by vibration or movement, other than the main harness which is tight
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From: MICHIGAN
Here's what the inside of an IDM looks like:
http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmm...s/DSC06367.htm
Maybe it need to be fastened better but I doubt it. The ground for the IDM is located on the driver side fender close to the firewall. It's a single black wire coming up out of a big harness.
Do you turn the key off then restart it? If so, this may be resetting what ever is gone bonkers (technical term)
. Scanning it right after it dies may give you some useful info. Leave the key on of course.
Get it scanned anyway, you may have a soft code that will get you pointed in the right direction.
http://www.forgotton.net/diesel/idmm...s/DSC06367.htm
Maybe it need to be fastened better but I doubt it. The ground for the IDM is located on the driver side fender close to the firewall. It's a single black wire coming up out of a big harness.
Do you turn the key off then restart it? If so, this may be resetting what ever is gone bonkers (technical term)
. Scanning it right after it dies may give you some useful info. Leave the key on of course.Get it scanned anyway, you may have a soft code that will get you pointed in the right direction.
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ok so I took the long way home from work to see if I could get the truck to act up under any conditions. The only thing that caused the stalling was a hard pull up to 3k rpm in first gear and then completly letting off of the gas. If it shifted before letting off of the gas it was fine. Same with any level of acceleration other than full throttle. Not sure if this helps narrow anything down or just confuses things further.
And there was no need to turn the key off and then back on. Still no check engine lights, I'll have to see if the autozone here can scan a diesel, but I have never seen a check engine light come on in 6 plus months(except with just the key on)
And there was no need to turn the key off and then back on. Still no check engine lights, I'll have to see if the autozone here can scan a diesel, but I have never seen a check engine light come on in 6 plus months(except with just the key on)
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From: MICHIGAN
Yep, you need to get it scanned.
If you can, take a ride and have it fail with a scanner hooked up. You will need a good scanner though.
If it will always repeats the failure, the dealer Or a good diesel repair shop will have a scanner that records all the info up to the failure.
If you can, take a ride and have it fail with a scanner hooked up. You will need a good scanner though.
If it will always repeats the failure, the dealer Or a good diesel repair shop will have a scanner that records all the info up to the failure.
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