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New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13
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From: Hayden Idaho
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Just ordered new door windows for my 50 F3, haven't got them yet but I'm already wondering how to put them in the metal "u" channel that conects them to the window regulator. Any ideas, tips, or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,768
Likes: 547
From: Kalispell, MT
My glass man told me to forget the old tape mounting system and go with what they use - auto grade silicone caulk. I used std construction grade - filled the channel about 1/2 full, set the glass in firmly and laid it flat to dry straight and square.
Some guys here will tell you not to - that getting it apart later is a real bear. (they said that after I did mine) I need to replace my driver's window again, so we'll see one of these days.
Some guys here will tell you not to - that getting it apart later is a real bear. (they said that after I did mine) I need to replace my driver's window again, so we'll see one of these days.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
"Some guys here will tell you not to - that getting it apart later is a real bear."
You might as well use a hammer to remove the glass later. The end result is usually the same. There is nothing wrong with the window setting tape if your channel it is good repair.
You might as well use a hammer to remove the glass later. The end result is usually the same. There is nothing wrong with the window setting tape if your channel it is good repair.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13
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From: Hayden Idaho
Thanks, I hadn't even thought about silicone. Mine had a rubber strip between the glass and the channel before the glass broke. I was thinking maybee a soapy solution and just press it in. I don't know how tight a fit it is and don't want to break the new glass putting it together but I also don't want it comming apart and breaking that way either. I looked at your gallery, nice looking truck (the 48) thats the color I'd like mine to be some day.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,768
Likes: 547
From: Kalispell, MT
fenders, that's how I got the old glass out last time 
The old tape had rusted to the channel. Come over and bring your hammer and we can make a mid-winter party out of it or something........
Ian Mike B, thanks for the compliment on the '48. Don't tell anyone, but that's '99 Honda Accord 'Dark Amethyst Pearl' paint - not a factory color, but I think it should have been.
So you're in Hayden? That makes us practically neighbors - I drove the '48 past your place last May when I went to pick up my brother at the Spokane airport, and in August I drove it to Kellogg when my youngest son bought a newer Dodge at Dave Smith's. I parked it in front of their showroom and in 10 minutes I had 6 or 7 salesmen and/or customers offer to buy it.
I like the rugged working look of your '50. It sets just right! Later...
The old tape had rusted to the channel. Come over and bring your hammer and we can make a mid-winter party out of it or something........
Ian Mike B, thanks for the compliment on the '48. Don't tell anyone, but that's '99 Honda Accord 'Dark Amethyst Pearl' paint - not a factory color, but I think it should have been.
So you're in Hayden? That makes us practically neighbors - I drove the '48 past your place last May when I went to pick up my brother at the Spokane airport, and in August I drove it to Kellogg when my youngest son bought a newer Dodge at Dave Smith's. I parked it in front of their showroom and in 10 minutes I had 6 or 7 salesmen and/or customers offer to buy it.
I like the rugged working look of your '50. It sets just right! Later...
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 344
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From: Lancaster, So Carolina
Just finished wrestling all new glass into my '55.
The glass tape (kinda corky and rubbery) may look oldie fashioned, and intimidate, but I found it VERY easy to work.
Cleaned and painted the window trays
Marked center of glass with masking tape
Marked center of tray with pencil
Folded glass tape into tray- did a trial fit, pried or pinched the tray so it was snug
Squirted a little silicone on the tape
Pressed glass in and it was RTG (ready to go) right away- no silicone goo setting time
The glass tape (kinda corky and rubbery) may look oldie fashioned, and intimidate, but I found it VERY easy to work.
Cleaned and painted the window trays
Marked center of glass with masking tape
Marked center of tray with pencil
Folded glass tape into tray- did a trial fit, pried or pinched the tray so it was snug
Squirted a little silicone on the tape
Pressed glass in and it was RTG (ready to go) right away- no silicone goo setting time
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
I just replaced the driver side window on my 54. I bought the tape roll but it seemed a little loose, so I applied a coat of silicon both on the glass edge and the metal tray. It looked great but came apart the next day when I tried rolling the window down. (New fuzzies) The silicon was still wet. It only dries in the pressence of air. So I redid it with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Wow it is on there great! Also, if your window is like mine, make suire it is centered in the channel. If it is too close to either end it will scrape. Good luck, John 
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,768
Likes: 547
From: Kalispell, MT
Actually the stock location in the 48-50 and probably 51,52 is offset. About 1" overhang on one end if I remember correctly. The other end overhangs about twice as much, maybe even 3"?
Measure the stock setup before you glue or tape.
Measure the stock setup before you glue or tape.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 344
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From: Lancaster, So Carolina
It does- there is not a great way to describe it, but let me try.
Basically, everything the glass will end up in must be loose while you load the glass.
divider bar- top screw out altogether, panel screw set but loose
glass run channel at rear of door- set only one screw loosely at the door latch.
if memory serves me, the glass feeds into the opening with the bottom channel angled up toward the rear of the door. Get it while catching the top forward corner of the glass in the divider bar channel (but only the corner, the angle in precludes you from happily sliding up the whole channel). Lift the glass after inside almost to the bottom of the opening while squaring it up. Then scrape your knuckles while you first feed the divider channel in (get an asst to put in that top divider screw) , then push the rear run channel on and put the screws in near the latch. THen put the lift mech pins in
Lets got some others to chime in on this
Basically, everything the glass will end up in must be loose while you load the glass.
divider bar- top screw out altogether, panel screw set but loose
glass run channel at rear of door- set only one screw loosely at the door latch.
if memory serves me, the glass feeds into the opening with the bottom channel angled up toward the rear of the door. Get it while catching the top forward corner of the glass in the divider bar channel (but only the corner, the angle in precludes you from happily sliding up the whole channel). Lift the glass after inside almost to the bottom of the opening while squaring it up. Then scrape your knuckles while you first feed the divider channel in (get an asst to put in that top divider screw) , then push the rear run channel on and put the screws in near the latch. THen put the lift mech pins in
Lets got some others to chime in on this
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
If I remember correctly, Ed, I took the keeper springs out while the window was rolled all the way down. Since the channels have all been loosened or unbolted, the window is free to lean against the door. This allowed me room to roll up the handle which moved the lifting mechanism out of the way or at least mostly out of the way.. Then I slid the window down until was sitting in the bottom of the door. I think that there is room to pull the top edge through the opening and remove the window intirely. If it doesn't then try rotating the window 90 degrees. I seem to recall having done it once that way also. Just a note: When installing your new glass and it's in the door well and your rolling down the mechanism; watch the studs carefully to maintain a safety clearance. You don't want to scratch your new window. Good luck, John PS I mailed you a MO yesterday.
Yea, pain is an excellent teacher!
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 314
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From: Medford, Oregon
I had the glass in my first 60 replaced with a trutint smoked glass. my dad works in glass and replaced all of the rubber in the channels when we did that. he actually used a rubber mallet to beat the glass into the channel. scared me to death when he was doing it...I guess it was ok as we could cut a new piece if it broke.
MTflat, iused to live in Corvallis MT down south, drove the 93 almost daily to your area, did alot of work in the flathead valley, mostly in the whitefish area and bigfork area. i sure miss living there.
Glack
MTflat, iused to live in Corvallis MT down south, drove the 93 almost daily to your area, did alot of work in the flathead valley, mostly in the whitefish area and bigfork area. i sure miss living there.
Glack