I'm replacing the ball joints on my 95 F250 w/ a dana 50 front end. Does anyone know how to get the spindles off? I dont want to start prying or beating on then and destroy them.

 

Replacing the ball joints on an F-250HD is a manly job! The factory service manual for ’95 F-250 HDs recommends removing the steering knuckle assembly from the truck to replace the ball joints. Major steps from the manual follow:

-Remove the wheels and tires.
-Remove the disc brake caliper. Wire it out of the way on the frame.
-Remove hub locks, wheel bearings and locknuts.
-Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor and front wheel bearing from the front wheel bearing spindle.
-Remove the nuts retaining the front wheel spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the front wheel spindle with a nylon hammer to jar the front wheel spindle from the knuckle. Remove the front disc brake rotor shield.
-On the left side of the vehicle remove the shaft and joint assembly by pulling the assembly out of the carrier.
-On the right side of the carrier, remove the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and the stub shaft.
-Slide the rubber boot onto the stub shaft and pull the shaft and joint assembly from the splines of the stub shaft.
-Remove the cotter pin from the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint. Loosen the nut on the top stud and the bottom nut inside the steering knuckle. Remove the top nut.
-Sharply hit the top stud with a plastic hammer to free the knuckle from the axle arm. Remove the bottom nut. Remove the steering knuckle for ball joint replacement.

Good luck with your ball joint replacement!

Lou Braun

 

No problems up to the part "Tap front wheel spindle with a nylon hammer", i've been beating on it with a 2 lb sledge & 2x4 & it won't budge. Any other suggestions? I dont want to destroy the spindle.

 

That spindle is fastened to the knuckle with eight studs and nuts. Once the nuts are removed nothing other than a tight fit and rust keep the slindle in place.

I'd try a liberal amount of penetrating oil on the joint between the steering knucle and spindle before using a bigger hammer.

 

you can hit it with a hammer just hit the part that isnt machined
if that doesnt work try a chisel between the spindle and the knuckle

 

I ve done this job more than a few times and can tell you with out a exaggration that those spindles are on real tight. I ve used a small hand sledge and two chisels with a chisel holder dont be afraid to whack it really hard there tuff to seperate. When you have the spindles off your dust sheild will likely be banged up from the chisel just flatten it back into shape with a hammer and vise and it will work just fine. Good luck......

 

i had to use a chisle on mine when you put it back together use some never sieze and they will come off nicer next time

 

I finally bit the bullet and started whacking away with a small sledge and a piece of 2x4. It finally came loose. Thanks!

 

I had similar difficulties with a Dana 44. I finally heated the knuckle around the spindle with the help of a little oxygen and acetylene. Then I iced down the spindle flange itself with plain old ice. After a few good, solid whacks with the dead blow, it broke free. That was one of the more miserable jobs I ever did on that truck.

 

File that one under REALLY BAD IDEAS.

Heating the knuckle will cause it to lose its temper, weakening the metal.

The best way I've found for removing stubborn spindles (they all are) is to thread the locknut back on and use a gear puller. Hook the fingers on the locknut, and push against the end of the axle shaft.

 

I banged away for an hour to no avail. Then I rented the Autozone Spindle Puller (27104) and slide hammer (27033) and had it off within a minute. Do yourself a favor and do the same