i am taking off the head of my 95 ranger 2.3 due to a burned valve.....its harder than i thought it would be.i probably should have just taken it in but here i am....anyway i took off the 8 intake bolts/nuts but the sucker will not budge.....what am i missing?also any other tips as far as removing and installing head will be great.i dont care how small let me know.thanks in advance.

 

My manual shows 10 headbolts. Double check to see if you missed a couple. When the head "will not budge" it is usually because not all headbolts are removed.

 

i am sorry....i should have made myself clearer.i am taking off the head but first i need to take the intake off.......i cannot seem to get the intake removed from the head.i dont know what bolts i am missing.thanks.

 

This is from the 1995 manual for the 2.3L

Upper Intake Manifold
Removal

NOTE: If removing upper intake manifold for access to other components only, throttle body may remain attached.

Disconnect intake air temperature sensor (IAT sensor) (12A697) .
Remove air cleaner outlet tube (9B659) .
Remove accelerator control splash shield (9E766) .
Disconnect electrical connections to:
Throttle position sensor (TP sensor) (9B989)
Idle air control valve (IAC valve) (9F715)
Disconnect accelerator cable (9A758) .
Remove accelerator cable bracket bolts and tie bracket and cables out of the way.
Disconnect PCV valve from oil separator.
Tag and disconnect vacuum hoses from manifold vacuum tee:
Power brakes
EGR
Speed control
Disconnect fuel pressure regulator vacuum line at fitting located on underside of intake manifold.
Remove two bolts and EGR valve (EGR valve) (9D475) and EGR valve gasket (9D476) .
Remove seven bolts and upper intake manifold and intake manifold upper gasket (9H486) from lower intake manifold.
Remove evaporative emission return tube (9G271) from throttle body (9E926) and upper intake manifold.
Remove four bolts, throttle body and throttle body gasket (TB gasket) (9E936) from upper intake manifold.

If necessary, remove intake manifold vacuum outlet fitting from upper intake manifold.


Lower Intake Manifold
Removal

WARNING: RESIDUE FUEL PRESSURE REMAINS IN FUEL SYSTEM AFTER ENGINE IS SHUT OFF. THIS COULD RESULT IN INJURY OR FIRE WHEN FUEL LINES ARE DISCONNECTED. DISCONNECT INERTIA FUEL SHUTOFF SWITCH (IFS SWITCH) (9341) AND CRANK ENGINE (6007) A MINIMUM OF 15 SECONDS TO DEPRESSURIZE SYSTEM. REFER TO SECTION 10-01.

Disconnect battery ground cable (14301) .
Remove engine oil dipstick bracket retaining bolt.
Remove upper intake manifold as outlined in this section.
Remove nut and dash panel ground cable (14303) from No. 7 stud.
Remove wiring harness clip from No. 3 and 6 studs.
Remove fuel tube clip (9A317) from fuel inlet and return fittings.
Using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool, disconnect fuel hoses at the fuel rail supply tube and fuel rail return tube.
Fit tool to coupling so tool can enter cage to release garter spring.
Push the tool into the cage opening to release female fitting from garter spring.
Pull the coupling male and female fittings apart.
Remove the tool from the disconnected coupling.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from all four fuel injector nozzle tips (9E527) and move fuel charging wiring (9D930) aside.
Remove engine lifting eye.
Remove four bottom retaining bolts from lower manifold.
Remove four upper retaining bolts/studs from lower manifold. Remove lower intake manifold assembly.
Remove two screws and fuel injection supply manifold (9D280) from lower intake manifold, if necessary.
Remove fuel injector nozzle tips from lower intake manifold, if necessary. Grasping injector body, pull up while gently rocking injector from side to side.
If necessary, remove bolt and 42-pin connector bracket.

 

The intake manifold has 8 bolts holding it on. All I can suggest is to look it over (I mean really look it over with a bright light) and make sure all the bolts, screws, clamps, etc are loose or removed. Sometimes these things get stuck from years of being in place, heat, etc. Use a rubber mallet to "smack" it a few times. Try to avoid prying the mating surfaces, but sometimes that's all that will work. You might try some penetrating oil, spray, wd-40. I can only tell you that in my experiences with these things, when they absolutely will not move, it's almost always because there is 1 more bolt or screw in there I missed. Let me know if you get it off.

 

that engine pulling eye thing may be te culprit.---i was planning on trying to leave the intake attached to the head but i figured it wouldnt be any easier even though it looked that way.hopefully i can get away with not disconnecting fuel lines(no tool)......i will use a mallet or something tomorrow....after the eye thing......thanks for the help guys.

 

fuel line tool cost is under $3.00 at local auto parts store

 

I had the same problem recently. The culprit was the EGR Valve, also some hoses under the manifold. Mine also had eight bolts.

 

ok guys got the intake off.now i need to remove the plastic timing cover or if possible just the bolt holding the timing tensioner.i think i can get it from above but not sure about if i can get it back on correctly later.----------i dont see how to get the timng cover off without taking the ac compressor off????? because the idler pully is in the way of the cover and is made onto the bracket.