I just got my Aerostar back from the mechanic (bad starter). I drove it about 3 miles on a shopping trip. On the way back, the engine just quit, but all my warning lights, etc still worked. I managed to coast into my driveway (lucky), and it would not start - just cranked, with the AMP light and check engine lights on. Plenty of power to the starter, AC, etc, though. I let it sit for 5 minutes and it started right up. I'm hoping that it will make it back to the shop after Christmas. In the meantime, is there something simple I could check and maybe escape the usual huge bill?

Another thing - the deal with the starter was that it would start half the time, the other half just click. I replaced the ignition switch, which appeared to clear the problem up for a week, only to have the same thing happen again. I had the mechanic look at it because I didn't know it was the starter - in my experience, once a starter goes, it stays broke. Any comments on this?

 

BPshriner,

First welcome to the forum. You'll find a lot of great people here, learn a great deal about your Aerostar and save a significant amount of time and money by doing many repairs by yourself.

On your starter problem, it could be a faulty starter relay but I'd think more on the lines of bad starter solenoid contacts. I haven't had this problem with my Aerostar, but an Explorer I owned previous to the Aerostar would sometimes take two or three tries with the ignition switch before it would finally crank over. You could hear the clicking of the starter relay, but that was all. Then suddenly it would start just fine. It might work fine for two days, two hours, or maybe mess up the next time I tried to start it...i.e. nothing consistent. After making sure I had power going from the starter relay to the starter solenoid when the key was turned to start, I removed the starter. Since I had the starter out anyway, I decided to break it down to see if it was the windings, brushes or anything I could repair myself. Money was tight and I didn't want to buy a new starter if I didn't have to. Upon removing the starter solenoid, I found that the copper contacts that the solenoid engaged to pass power to the starter windings had worn down to almost nothing. After so many starts over the years, they just were worn out. I found replacements for under $10.00 at an alternator/starter repair shop, installed them myself, reinstalled the starter, and the van started everytime, first-time after. As far as I know it's still working great and that was a couple/three of years ago.

On the van stopping on you just moments after you picked it up from the repair shop, I'd take it back to the shop and have them fix whatever they messed up.

If you want more information here, though, we'll need to know what engine you have in your 93 before we can begin to help you troubleshoot the possible cause and more specific information on what exactly the engine did when it quit, and what it is doing now when you try to start it.

Ron

 

Also look for the possibility that the ignition module is getting heat soaked and causing the van to cut off. When it cools down, it will start like there was no problem. The symptoms sound like it could be bad, but it could possibly be something else.

 

First of all, thanks for the welcome!

The motor didn't quit right after I picked it up ... it was the next day after a short (6 mile) drive. I checked all the connections, and I'm leaning toward the ignition module solution, since I had power for everything else except lighting the motor up. I have a relatively new motor (20,000 miles) in it, but it still has most of the original parts. Where it the module located? If it's easily accessible, I'll replace it. I just hope it's not like most of the parts, and hidden behind a bunch of other things.

 

Oops, I forgot to mention it's a 3.0 in an XL body.

Brian

 

Older vans had the ignition module on the distributor. My 95 (3.0) is on the passenger side inner fender on a finned heatsink. I understand they were moved there because of heat-related problems. I don't know what year they were moved to the fender.

I'll add a second vote for the heat-soaked ignition module being the culprit. I haven't had any problem with the one in my van, but it is a fairly common problem (not specific to Aerostars).

Cheers,
Eric

 

Brian,

According to my Chilton's manual, the ignition control module for 93-95 models is located on the inner right side fender. For 90-92 models, it's located on the lower intake manifold. 96-97 models did not have a separate ICM; the power control module (PCM) regulates the spark timing.

LOL

Ron

 

Thanks for the information! I'll get on it as soon as I get back from the Washington Auto Show. It's always a good experience on these forums - this is my 4th ( '66 Charger, '85 Eldorado, '86 LeSabre).
I'll let y'all know how it turns out.

Brian

 

Looks like the advice regarding the overheating module was right! After getting a new one from NAPA (along with having what's left of my hair stand on end at the *NAPA* price - my mechanic uses OEM dealer parts) I took the old one off the heat sink with the "Special Ford Socket" (also from NAPA). The heat transfer paste had totally dried out. There was no hold whatsoever, so probably very little heat transfer. The heat sink hold-down screw for the fender also happened to be missing, not that that would have anything to do with the problem.

Thanks to all; hope I can help out sometime! Here's a tip for older T-Bird/Ford power window motors - the springs that push the brushes in sometimes rust and collapse, causing the motor to quit. Replace with the springs out of El Cheapo ballpoint pens. Perfect fit.

Brian

 

Well, I had hoped not to be posting again ... drove 20 miles today with the new ignition module, saw a movie, and made it 10 miles back when the engine quit again, no warning. I waited 2-3 minutes, started it up again, and got home. I've received some email pointing me to a possibly faulty fuel pump, but this happens with no warning at all - no sputtering, missing, nothing. Gauges all read normal, too, up to the second the engine dies. After coasting about 5-10 seconds, I get the check engine and AMP light.

 

I have no idea how that HTML got in my post. I'm not shilling for the site it directs you to.

 

hi bp.
i had a prblem with my 89xl, whenever i did alot of continous driving with less than half a tank of gas, fuel pump would quit running (overheating ?). of course, the motor didnt just cut off, it would sputter and pop for a second, then quit. seems to me that a fuel related problem would do the sputter thing.

 

The situation at the last occurrence was a full tank of gas, cruising along about 70 mph. No sputter, no pop, just a weird sort of soft jerk (from deceleration) when the engine quit. I'm starting to think that this is some sort of sign or something.

 

I'm wondering if it's not a intermittent bad ground somewhere. Is it throwing any codes? The check engine and amp light are simply the ones that would be on in the key on position without the engine running. When was the last time it had a complete tuneup? There are so many things that can cause a stalling out condition that it can be hard to diagnose, as you are finding out.

 

I'm thinking (beyond the "sign" thing) , that coming so close on the heels of the starter problem, that it's related - the mechanic left a loose connection somewhere. I'm going to go over everything starting tomorrow. I'm also thinking of switching mechanics. The guy's been pretty good overall, been doing business with him over the past 15 years, but you know how it is - he doesn't do as much of the work as he used to, the younger guys who do the work now may not be as good, etc. Same thing happened with a really sharp outfit I used to do business with in Louisiana - the old guy died, the son went into management, and now they're mediocre at best.
I'll have to get smart fast on the code situation; the only one I know how to do is my Caddy. Will I need a reader?

Brian