Pulling Engine
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Elder User
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Pulling Engine
OK, so this is probably a very dumb question but I'm getting ready to pull the 352 out of my truck and I've seen these engine lift plates that bolt to the intake manifold in place of the carborator. Sounds and looks OK so far but when I'm putting the engine back in I'll have an aluminum intake manifold on it then and now it seems to me the engine and tranny combo is going to be too heavy to lift by the aluminum intake. Any suggestions?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dudley, GA
Remove two bolts from you intake manifold and on the front of the drivers side head there is a bolt hole. Secure the chain to that one. Same for the other side but in the back of the passenger side head. If it's hard to get to, secure the chain to the aft intake manifold bolt on that side. Some engines come with a longer bolt for that hole and a spacer. That engine is about 600 lbs. and I wouldn't trust it any other way. Also, when the chain has a bit of tension on it, put two bolts on either side of the chain next to the hook so the engine can't slide on the chain and get all cockeyed. It's a pain in the butt to get it level again if this happens.
You also need to disconnect the tranny before you pull the engine out. They won't come out or go back in the truck together!
You also need to disconnect the tranny before you pull the engine out. They won't come out or go back in the truck together!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Iowa
Originally posted by 71_4x4_390
Remove two bolts from you intake manifold and on the front of the drivers side head there is a bolt hole. Secure the chain to that one. Same for the other side but in the back of the passenger side head. If it's hard to get to, secure the chain to the aft intake manifold bolt on that side. Some engines come with a longer bolt for that hole and a spacer. That engine is about 600 lbs. and I wouldn't trust it any other way. Also, when the chain has a bit of tension on it, put two bolts on either side of the chain next to the hook so the engine can't slide on the chain and get all cockeyed. It's a pain in the butt to get it level again if this happens.
You also need to disconnect the tranny before you pull the engine out. They won't come out or go back in the truck together!
Remove two bolts from you intake manifold and on the front of the drivers side head there is a bolt hole. Secure the chain to that one. Same for the other side but in the back of the passenger side head. If it's hard to get to, secure the chain to the aft intake manifold bolt on that side. Some engines come with a longer bolt for that hole and a spacer. That engine is about 600 lbs. and I wouldn't trust it any other way. Also, when the chain has a bit of tension on it, put two bolts on either side of the chain next to the hook so the engine can't slide on the chain and get all cockeyed. It's a pain in the butt to get it level again if this happens.
You also need to disconnect the tranny before you pull the engine out. They won't come out or go back in the truck together!
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dudley, GA
You have to separate them BEFORE you pull out the engine. i.e. remove all the bolts connecting them around the back of the engine. If I remember there are 6 or 8 bolts. If you have pulled them out as one unit, have at it! But if all you want is the engine why pull the tranny too?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dudley, GA
I don't believe it would clear. Plus I think it would be more of a hassle. Are planning to do something with the transmision that it must come out? If not, leave it in. I might suggest getting the book by Steve Christ on rebuilding the FE. He explains every last detail. You can pick it up here in the Motorhaven store on this web site. If you've never done a rebuild before it is well worth the money.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Littleton, CO
If you are going to pull the tranny out with the engin, you need to unbolt the cross member under it so it can tip down in the back.
That said... if you attempt to remove the engine/tranny combo, you will need a lot of lift from your hoist. Becasue it all boils down to angles of approach. I pulled the motor for my truck out of a donor in the salvage yard, done with the tranny attached and we used a truck with what equated to a 9-foot boom. You also need to adjust the lift points as you go because of the weight transfers. I used the open bolt holes in the front/back of the heads as well as one or two in the open spots where the exhaust manifolds bolt on.
It can be done, I would recommend that if you are doing the work in your garage, separate the two first. It's better to spend the extra time to be safe and enjoy your ride for more years to come
JMHO --Mike G
That said... if you attempt to remove the engine/tranny combo, you will need a lot of lift from your hoist. Becasue it all boils down to angles of approach. I pulled the motor for my truck out of a donor in the salvage yard, done with the tranny attached and we used a truck with what equated to a 9-foot boom. You also need to adjust the lift points as you go because of the weight transfers. I used the open bolt holes in the front/back of the heads as well as one or two in the open spots where the exhaust manifolds bolt on.
It can be done, I would recommend that if you are doing the work in your garage, separate the two first. It's better to spend the extra time to be safe and enjoy your ride for more years to come
JMHO --Mike G
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Posting Guru
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From: alaska
something that i usually do is either remove the radiator or put a piece of 1/2 inch plywood in between it and the engine, saves wishing i had, if your not going to use the same trany, the engine ,trany at the same time is good. a friend with some time to help usually is a good thing also, ive done them myself both ways but it takes longer,good luck , bob
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From: Balfour
Taking the trans out from below is cakework, take the shifter out and the plate that covers it, undo the mount +crossmember bolts, undo the bell+ UJ bolts, and yank that beast outta there. It's an extra 4 bolts to undue if you take them apart before extraction..... Actually it saves you bolts since you have to get the shift housing off to get the tranny through the engine bay, nevermind the hastle hassle of having a 150lb protruding lump of iron attached to the 670lbs your already pulling on.
And don't do the job on your gravel driveway!! Its sucks
And don't do the job on your gravel driveway!! Its sucks
Senior User
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From: Balfour
check how high your hoist can lift, my two tonne is a couple inches shy of clearing the rad support on my 1970 highboy even with the chain so tight to the block I can barely get the hook on it... Inadequate hoists make for a real fistin' extraction!
Posting Guru
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From: alaska
something i have done is to use the power steering bolts in the front and back of the heads' drivers front and passenge rear,they have the same holes on both sides ' , they seem to give a better hold . bob
Last edited by bob arrington; Jan 11, 2004 at 01:42 AM.
Postmaster
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From: Conway Arkansas
I pulled mine at the same time
It was a PITA and I wouldn't recommend it
They weigh WAY to much
seperate them.
Then you can just slide the tranny to the motor crossmember, and then let it down to the ground
It was a PITA and I wouldn't recommend it
They weigh WAY to much
seperate them.
Then you can just slide the tranny to the motor crossmember, and then let it down to the ground
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Got 'em both out together on Saturday - its a 67 with an automatic, it looks cast iron to me, engine and tranny combo must weigh close to 900 pounds. I ended up taking the radiator support off, it wasn't too hard with that out of the way.