The truck is an'89 F350 diesel with the famous E4OD.

It is losing fluid through the torque converter/flywheel housing when it gets pushed hard (currently that means snowplowing).
If I haven't destroyed it I figure the front seal is shot.
I am taking bolts loose in prep for dropping it myself. Then I'll replace the seal, maybe look at the pump while its out.

On the tail end of my trans is the transfer case for the 4wd. Which bolts should I take out to separate the trans from the transfer case?
______ ____________
? ?
Transmission ? Transition ? Transfer case
_______ ? piece ?_____________

And - How do you rotate the flywheel to remove the torque converter bolts? (They are the ones in the flywheel aren't they?)

Chris

 

You can rotate the flywheel by using a suitable socket / wrench on the Crankshaft in front of your engine. There is a bolt which is holding your vibration damfer. On that bolt you can rotate the flywheel. If you do that be sure not to loosen the bolt when rotating the engine/flywheel.

CHECK the bolt after the work is done and DON'T FORGET the socket/wrench on the bolt. Have a look to that point before your start the engine after repair.

Jens

 

Jens,

Great idea - wish I had thought of that. I even had a '35 dodge once that had a crank and you could start it that way

I'll never forget this lesson. thanks, Chris

 

Hi Chris,

If you have more questions.....feel free and ask again.

Merry Christmas

Jens

 

Hey Erickson, I recently and am currently in a tranny job myself. Never doing tranny work before I ended up going to a shop. I hate letting others work on my truck but for what it's worth here is where I stand. Same data I just posted in the tranny forum.

Here it is, I took it down for a seal leak and this is what they say I need. The place is a local shop that warantees the work thru ATRA. Any thought on it would be greatly appreciated????

DACCO TORQUE CONVERTOR $266.30 AFTER CORE CHARGE
E40OD MOK W/O STEELS 1989-95 $402.77
E40D/4R100 FILTER 4WD 89-UP SPF $ 31.87
E4OD SUPERIOR SHIFT CORR 89-97 $88.98
C6 BUSHING, PUMP $3.26
E4OD BAND-COAST 1989/UP {BW} $30.70
E4OD SNAP RING (WAS LOOSE IN THE PAN) $5.83
E40OD SERVO PISTON REDESIGNED $14.19
E4OD SOLENOID BODY/REBUILT $173.16
MERCON III TRENNY FLUID $36.45
REAR MAIN OIL SEAL (AT MY REQUEST) $42.00

ALSO GOING TO PUT NEW U-JOINT AND TRANNY TEMP GAUGE ON THE TRUCK WHILE IT'S OUT.

btw: the sympthoms were front seal leak, delayed reverse engagement and extremely smooth shifting. Tranny was rebuilt in 95 and had a aftermarket TC in it that was not stamped. The tech is going to increase some line pressure by drilling out some stuff he says.

 

Oh, I posted this with the thought of miles on the tranny in mind, don't know what you have but mine has 130,000 on it. They say it's all wear and tear. JUST FYI to toy with.

 

Hello 1SG,

I appreciate all the info.

I dropped the trans myself witha rented trans jack. Drained most/all fluid first.
Replaced: trans filter, pan gasket, torque converter seal and trans fluid.
Installed transcool transmission cooler.(in series with rad cooler)
Flushed both coolers.
cleaned and put electrical grease on all plugs/connectors.
reinstalled trans without a trans jack. (I used two shop type sissors jacks on rollers and a pair of 1" ratchet straps)
cleaned, carefully, TC "neck" with 1000 grit waterproof silicon carbide paper and some light oil.

Put it all back together. I took some pressure readings from the High pressure port on the drivers side of the trans (E4OD). A service tech suggested I do that because sometimes high pressure is a problem. HP can cause fluid to blow by the TC neck. Pressures checked out OK except reverse is a little low.

It works, no leaks, but haven't tried plowing yet. I think I got away cheap this time. On hind sight I probably should have put in a new rear seal on the engine chankshaft. Well, I know how to get there now. It runs exactly as it should. If I upgrade later I might put in a HD solenoid block so the shifting is faster and there is less slipping of the clutches.

Chris