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Changing torque converter

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Old 11-13-2014, 10:02 AM
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Changing torque converter

I have a 97 F-150 Supercab XLT, 4X4, 4.6L W, 4r70W with electronic Overdrive, manual shift transfer case. I need to remove and replace the Torque Converter. My question is: Would it be easier to drop the transmission and transfer case or pull the engine loose and move it forward to get at the torque converter?
It is shifting in and out of overdrive to third, and then back into OD, and back into third erratically and for no apparent reason. It is also slipping intermittently in first from a dead stop and locking all at once, shifts hard then. When I first drive it the OD light does not flash and the OD off switch works, once it warms up good it starts shifting erratically and the OD off switch starts flashing, then the off switch does not work. I did not get any codes returned on autozones little scanner and am taking it to the ford dealer for a full scan today to see if there might be any other damage or cause for this problem. The problems started when I blew a hose to the trans cooler in the radiator and lost fluid. I didn't notice the blown hose until it started slipping and pulled over, replaced the hose and fluid. Had problems ever since. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the ABS sensor in the differential so far. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:40 PM
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It is easier to pull the transfer case and the trans then pulling the engine. Besides, it is good practice for after you have the new converter installed. You'll need to pull the trans to rebuild it because the torque converter is not you problem. Why do you think it is?
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:46 PM
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maybe reuse your converter instead of wasting money on a new one and spend that money on the rebuild.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:01 PM
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Scan results from above 97 F-150

Ford Dealer's scan results came back. P0304, P0307, P0503, P1500. Misfire on cyl. 4 & 7. 2 codes for ABS speed sensor. Mechanic said I have worn clutches in the Differential resu;ting in metal filings in Differential fluid which is causing the ABS speed senor (which I already replaced 2 days ago) to read all over the map. I saw the scan graph and at a constant 50 m.p.h. the scan graph was all over the place. You guys were right about saving the money on a new torque converter. I am popping the pumpkin cover off (9 bolt limited slip, 3.55 gears), cleaning with Brake parts cleaner, Put back together with Black RTV for gasket and refilling with new 75-140 full syn gear oil and Ford OEM Additive Friction Modifier. Will post results later. Thanks for the replies, I have been out of work for some time now and have a job waiting once I can get this truck back on the road!
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:50 PM
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ABS sensor reading incorrectly due to metal filings in differential lube or wiring to/from ABS speed sensor.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Skip1970
maybe reuse your converter instead of wasting money on a new one and spend that money on the rebuild.
Reusing an old converter on a fresh rebuild is a good way to need a second fresh rebuild. Never use an old converter on a new trans.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:02 PM
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I agree Mark. If I have to rebuild the trans on this truck it will probably end up getting sold for a Mud Truck. Other threads indicate my problem could be a loose valve body, OD shift solenoid and or snap ring or the torque converter clutches are fried. I'll clean and refill the differential first. If that doesn't work I'll flush the trans, drop the pan and check valve body, new filter and fluid. It probably needs that anyways. Thanks!
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:38 PM
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what about if you flush the old converter out good with it running before removal?
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:12 AM
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Skip. I plan on flushing the whole trans, changing the filter and refilling with fresh ATF anyways, after I flush the differential and before I take it back to the dealer for a second scan.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Skip1970
what about if you flush the old converter out good with it running before removal?
You still stand an excellent chance of destroying the new transmission. If you insist on reusing and old torque converter take it to a trans shop and have them cut it open and rebuild it.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RKTech
Other threads indicate my problem could be a loose valve body
That is a possibility.

Originally Posted by RKTech
OD shift solenoid
There is no OD shift solenoid. There are two shift solenoids and they control all of the shifting. They are called SS1 and SS2, no OD shift solenoid.
Originally Posted by RKTech
the torque converter clutches are fried.
No, that won't cause any of your issues. It is NOT the torque converter causing these problems.
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:15 PM
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whats the price on a new convertor?
 
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Skip1970
whats the price on a new convertor?
i was quoted 150 at my local napa.

also to rktech i appreciate the shout out to kelsey from 2 stroke head . com and after reading your posts a bit i know you arent him. a touch misleading, i was about to pm you a question, but glad i read farther.
hope he doent come on this site and find his name is taken!!!
happy shreddin!!!
 
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:46 PM
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Here is an update. I took the differential cover off and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the differential, reinstalled cover and filled with fresh fluid and Limited slip additive. Great improvement! However after about ten miles the OD Off Switch light began flashing again but nothing else happened until it downshifted into third, then the switch did not seem to work to lock out overdrive. After pulling over and shutting the engine off, restarted with no flashing and except for a short slip coming away from a dead stop everything worked fine again for another five miles when I parked it back in my driveway. Should I take it back to the dealer for a second scan? Do I risk further damage continuing to drive it? What should I check net? I am stumped!
 
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:24 AM
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Nope that isn't me, I don't do 2 strokes.
 


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