460 conversion motor mounts
Senior User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Powell River, B.C.
I used the L&L mounts and truck headers (2 1/2") to keep the bottom end torque and it's working really well so far. As far as difficutly installing the engine. Nada!! Smooth like peeled egg.
Pat
Pat
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: East Tennessee
motor mounts and headers.
I used L&L's whole kit-headers, mounts and brackets into a 77 F-250 4x4 with that crappy power assist steering. They(the parts) worked extremely well ( although the mechanic was somewhat less than competent.)--it all went on a 460 out of a 77 Lincoln continintal. As far as I can tell no problems other than the header bolts backing out---(again that darn worthless mechanic.) L&L is expensive but the headers I got had huge flanges and there were NO frame modifications to make them fit. I specified that I wanted the headers to exit inside the frame and not the ones that went outside the frame. Although I do wonder if it would have been better to get the others--for clearance and workability around other components. I would recommend them--I think in this case you do get what you pay for. The motor is bone stock and feels like it could pull all day long.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
Likes: 21
From: Northern Illinois
i like the fenderwell headers. i am going to have some custom stainless mandrell bent for mine and tuck it all back under the frame and dump out with some chrome extensions under the rear bumper.
if you can afford it L+L is definetly the way to go in my book
if you can afford it L+L is definetly the way to go in my book
Senior User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Powell River, B.C.
Do you know of anybody else that has SS headers. Reason that I'm asking is that we tried them on some of the fishboats and found that the tinny noise and cracking problems made us stop using them. May be fine but that is an experinece that I've had. We ended up using that current exhaust pipe that does not seem to rust much. Think that it's got nickel in it.
Regards,
Pat
Regards,
Pat
Senior User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Powell River, B.C.
I was talking about the exhaust pipe that runs from the headers to the mufflesr and on from there. We found that they stess cracked quite badly and there was a sharp tinny sound. Most annoying. We may have been using entirely the wrong type of stainless and probably did.
Sorry if I gave the impression that I spoke of headers.
Pat
Sorry if I gave the impression that I spoke of headers.
Pat
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Hang the ends of your headers off of the transmission so the mount moves with the engine to help avoid some of the stress cracking in the headers. From there on use a ball joint and flex mounts to accomodate dimensional changes due to heat and also flex. I have seen the ball joints just not in stainless yet.. 
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
looks like the L&L headers are going to end up on the truck. Thanks for all the help guys.
U think the stock radiator will be able to cool it, or do I need to update that too?
Ryan
U think the stock radiator will be able to cool it, or do I need to update that too?
Ryan
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
well, I have no clue if it is a high output heater or not....is there a way to tell? We put a new heater core in it a year or two ago. I am not positive on how many core it is, but that I can tell easily and will look. If it is only a 2 core, I should be able to find a junk yard swap for that shouldn't I?
thanks,
Ryan
thanks,
Ryan
Senior User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Powell River, B.C.
Gotta agree on that one. Pain in the butt when they fail and a pain in the butt to put in. For the saving of $10-$15 and that's not counting the labor of taking the swap unit out of the donor, parts store is a no brainer on this one.
As was mentioned earlier, if you've got AC you'll need the AC core. Otherwise, the High Output units are listed on the dash as having a High Output Heater. There may be exceptions but my '78 Lariat didn't have AC and did have a sign on the dash.
Pat
As was mentioned earlier, if you've got AC you'll need the AC core. Otherwise, the High Output units are listed on the dash as having a High Output Heater. There may be exceptions but my '78 Lariat didn't have AC and did have a sign on the dash.
Pat
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 71
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more questions
now I got to wondering about the weight of the 460 to the 400? Does anyone know how much more the 460 weighs then my current engine (400)? Will I need to add any extra suspension components? Maybe some air bags? I plow with this truck, so it already has extra Leafs in the front, but then again so does the rear. MY truck still has a slight rake to the front, would like to get rid of that even with the extra weight on the 460. Anyone got advice on that?
Actually, what is the difference between a high boy suspension and a stock f 250 1979 4X4? I love the way the high boy sits, any higher and I would possibly have to modify my snow plow framework. Also have to worry about Illinois lift laws too.
thanks all!!!
Ryan
Actually, what is the difference between a high boy suspension and a stock f 250 1979 4X4? I love the way the high boy sits, any higher and I would possibly have to modify my snow plow framework. Also have to worry about Illinois lift laws too.
thanks all!!!
Ryan
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
From: Texas, just south of NY c
Here is a general type question for anybody who has a Comment. I've got a 77 Hiboy with a relatively low milage 400 with about 3500 miles on a complete rebuild. I've considered putting a 460 in its place to try and improve the fuel milage. I have a NP 435 . I know the 400 bell will bolt up to a 460. MY Question...... Will the 10 spline X 1 1\16" output shaft from the NP435 along with my clutch assembly bolt up to the 460 flywheel without alot expense , etc. thanks, s.kuteman