Hi everyone!
I really need some help here! I have been trying to figure out what kind of speakers to put in my truck. I have a 1969 F-250. I know I wont be able to fit in any subs or anything but I think I could put in almost anything else. I already have a HU so I wont need a new one, just speakers.

My HU is the Sony CDX-C4750
Max power output: 40 Watts X 4
Min Freq response: 10 kHz
Max Freq response: 20kHz
Signal to noise ratio: 90dB

I am looking to put 6X9's in the doors, but which ones? JL, Sony, Pioneer..ect...ect...ect.

Also what is better mono, 2 way, 3 way, 4 way?

What other size speakers would I need?

I will be doing a custom install myself so cutting the dash and so forth is ok with me. (I know how to do it)

O.K. last but not least is a suggestion I have. Why not have a refrence song to judge stereo systems by?

Here is my suggestions for songs:

"Stairway to heaven" -Led Zeppelin
"Hotel California" -The Eagles
"One" -Metallica

Again this is just my suggestion! But these are the songs that I will judge my speakers by!

Thanks for all the help everyone!!

Dale
1969 Ford F-250

 

I'd look at Infinity refrence series speakers
2 way or 3 way should do you fine

I think most of us have "refrence" songs we judge systems by
when I was younger zepplin IV used to be the first tape I'd play on any system.then it was AIC Dirt, now I use lots of SRV.I like some sublime for subs

 

JL, Pioneer, or Kenwood sound like good options 3 way is probably your best bet depending on what you want. For the type of music you want you dont need a lot of bass, but if you like it loud with a punch you might look at other options.

 

Thanks for the replys,

Here are the speakers I am looking at:

Infinity Kappa 693.5i (6X9")
Infinity Kappa 42.5i (4")

will these work good together? Do I need more speakers? Also do I need an amp? If so, what brand? how many watts?

Im sorry for asking so many questions, but when it comes to audio stuff I am a complete idiot!

Again thank for all your help!

 

Actually if you want to have a kick @ss sound system, you need to get some good speakers....

6x9 realm is a pretty broad one......and since you are using the 6x9's to drive the bass response, you will need some that reproduce as deep bass as possible.

Kicker 02K693 _6"x9" 3-Way Speakers
Titanium-coated injection-molded polygraphite woofer_• cone midrange_• 1" Kaladex tweeter_• 6-90W RMS power range
these have a good frequency response of 30-21000hz
and run about $180 for the pair.

Rockford Fosgate FRC4369 _6"x9" 3-way Speakers
Mica-injected polypropylene woofer_• polyethermide tweeter_• polyethermide supertweeter_• 8-75W RMS power range have a freq response of 30-22000hz
and run about $140

Infinity Kappa 692.5i _6"x9" 2-way Speakers
Oversized C.M.M.D. woofer with hi-roll rubber surround_• Unipivot C.M.M.D. balanced dome tweeter_• 2-way external crossovers_• 2-110W RMS power range and have a freq response of 35-21,000hz these run about $200

Alpine SPS-690A _6"x9" 3-way Car Speakers
Aluminum-coated polypropylene woofer_• rubber surround_• pulp cone midrange_• titanium-coated PEI tweeter_• 2-50W RMS power range and have freq response of 30-30,000hz with the price of about $120

then the 5.25 inch speaker realm we have:

Alpine SPS-130A _5-1/4" 2-way Car Speakers
Aluminum-coated polypropylene woofer_• rubber surround_• swiveling titanium-coated PEI tweeter_• 2-30W RMS power range
that has the freq range of 40-30,000hz and run $90

Infinity Kappa 52.5i _5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Large C.M.M.D. woofer_• hi-roll rubber surround_• C.M.M.D. dome tweeter pivots for better imaging_• outboard crossover included_• 2-55W RMS power range and freq response of 51-30000hz and run $149.99

I would not think of even cutting the dash to get good sound.....

I would really think of mounting the 6x9's behind the seats on the rear lower pillars....(fab up some mounts for this...)

and mount the 5.25 or 6.5's in the doors......6.5's are preferable for good bass response...

As you can see, Infinity is good....but for the price....they don't really stack up to Alpine or even Kicker.....keep in mind the human ear can hear 20-20,000hz
and rms power is not peak power handling....save yourself some bucks for that amp!!!!

in this case proper placement is crucial....the doors are the better place to mount the imaging speakers.... while the speaker driving the bass aren't so crucial....

As far as amps are concerned.....go and get a good Alpine, Hifonics, Pioneer, Kenwood, Autotek, Soundstream etc....so long as it is a class D amp with 4 channels, mosfet switching power supply and can fit in your truck.....under a seal preferably. Power level is up to you but I recommend no less than 60x4 watts rms for clean sound...this usually means that at muscial peaks the wattage usually doubles for these amps....so typically you'll see 100-120 watts on musical peaks.

Also choose an amp with low THD total harmonic distortion.....it is distortion that kills speakers....by making them "clip"....this happens when the amp cannot match the power supply with the demand that musical peaks put out...so the amp clips leaving the positive phase on and making the speaker's cone elevate without the rebound...this heats up voice coils and blows speakers.....

ANyhow.....use good quality rca interconnects and power wires....as well as speaker cable...

you won't be disappointed.

any more Qs shoot me an email

R

 

good suggestions, just one thing
I believe most class D amps are sub amps

 

Yep.

 

Renegadesrun,
that link just takes me to the FTE home page

 

CLass D amplifiers ARE NOT limited to subwoofer amplifiers.....but do include them.....please read up on this subject at this link....

I am an audiophile and understand these things....

audioholics.com/techtips/audioprinciples/amplifiers/digital_classD_amplifiers.html

DO look for amps with ultra low THD (total harmonic distortion) ratings
the digitally controlled signal/power amps have cleaner sound....and run cooler....

they cost more but are worth it.

 

I am still unaware of any fullrange class D automotive amplifiers.
there may be, theres all kind of wierd stuff out there, Vacuum tube car amps exist, so........

 

i would just skip past the whole 6x9/4" deal and go right for a component set. u can get the same, if not better, bass reporcudtion out of the component set. IMO, 6x9s, suck for bass and i havent been happy with any i heard. and the tweeter in the comp set will put perform the 4" driver. u can also mount an infinite baffle speaker in the door such as the JL IB4 and get a set of decent comps. and mount them in the kick panels. id look at either Alpine, CDT, Infinity, MB quart, Diamond...also, definatly get an amp for the speakers weather u choose 6x9s or the comps.

 

No, they arent limited. They are highly recommended. I doubt many here are willing to purchase the alt necessary to run a system with more than one amp to its full potential. The voltage drop from using a A/B would actually hurt the systems overall performance.

I would like to add JL XR and CDT to the highs list.

 

re: I doubt many here are willing to purchase the alt necessary to run a system with more than one amp to its full potential.
----------------------------------------------------
Whether or not you need an upgraded charging system will depend on the wattage used....I doubt many here want anything over 400-500watts....

A stiffening capacitor usually sufficient for amps used to push stock location aftermarket replacement speakers. A stiffening cap is a must for amps that are or less than 1 ohm stable.

I recently installed a full range set of Xtant 1.1is in my truck.....along with a 1 farad stiffening cap. I also got a set of MBquart 6.5 separates....and the MBquart angled tweeter coaxials in the rear.

My next upgrade is to purchase a JL audio 10 inch sub and place it in the custom enclosure I made....

Then the next toy I will install is the Audio COntrol ESP2 with the center channel. (speaker will probably be mounted on the floorboard just behind the tranny access panel....)

As far as Class D full range amps...they are out there....but they cost more...

The cost is worth the benefit in my opinion.

 

Caps are a bandaid to a larger problem. Unless your are a SQ competitor, caps are useless. If you have a voltage / dimming problem, you need more power, NOT another item in the load on your already failing alt.

Think of it as bleeding to death internally. You look fine, but are dying inside.

The cap arguement will be lost. Horribly. Ive got a couple thousand years of knowledge from ppl in the industry, you got the word of the kid at best buy. If you got that opinion online i want to know where. (IE...caps a must)

I never said he needed a class d anything, i was just answering a question. He a 4 channel, and yes the Kappas would be fine. The deck is questionable as well, but itll work. Now since THIS directly relates to the question, you may now feel free to find something to argue about.

 

WOW!!

You guys are great! what the heck do most of you do, work for Crutchfield?? LOL

In my Gallery I have put in pictures of the locations that people normally put in speakers. The problem with my truck is that I cant put them behind the seat like "Capone" suggested because that is where my fuel tank is, and I cant put them in the kick panels like "optikal illushun" suggested, because on the older trucks this is where the cab fresh air intake is located. (behind the sheetmetal) So i guess my only choices are in the door (which I dont mind because its already cut) and the dash, (also which I dont mind because I can make it look professional)

I know I wont be able to put in a really good system because of space limitations, but at the same time I dont want it to sound like a stock KIA system! LOL

I think my biggist concerns are crackeling and distortion, and I would like at least a little bass.

Thanks all

Dale.