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Does somebody knows about Ford 335? Have a good chance to purchase a very good deal on this enginee but need to know if this is a W,C or M based engine.
If so it may be a good project to swap a 335 using 302 Fi parts.
Is it possible to use this engine with 302 heads, Fi and all that stuff......?
Really need to know prior to make an offer..........
I am not familliar with a 335 cubic inch motor of the ford variety. Do you mean 335 series? If so that includes the 351cleveland, 351 modified, and the 400 modified. You could use the cleveland heads either 2v heads or 4v heads on a windsor 302/351 windsor motors with some machine work. YOu could also modify the 400 crank to create a couple stroker variations on the 351windsor. Honestly, unless your getting these parts for free, the cost to rework, might not be worth it considering all the aftermarket cranks and heads that are available used to add performance to the windsor small blocks. To tell the 351cleveland from the 351/400modified motors the bellhousing is a small block pattern on the cleveland and the modified engines generally have a big block bolt pattern. To tell the 351m from the 400m you have to measure the stroke or know whats stamped on the crank. If you wanted a performance motor then the 351cleveland would be great. Just a thought, let us know what you have, I am interested in knowing what a 335 cubic inch motor came out of, if its not 335 series, later
Last edited by jwtaylor; Dec 19, 2003 at 07:41 AM.
If your talking a 351 with standard stroke of 3.5" and a bore of 3.85 then you would have a 326 motor.
3.85 X 3.85 X 3.5 X .7854 X 8 = 325.96456 cubic inches
Where did you get the info for the 335 engine? I would like to look at it.
I wouldn't know how much you could bore that block is it identical to a regular 351, as far as cast, just with smaller standard bores?
Just for thought a 351 can be bored out to 4.060 but its recommended not to go past 4.030/ 4.040 just to be sure the wall thickness doesn't become too thin and create too much heat/ overheating.
YOu could swap 351 heads on a efi motor you may have to modify the emissions equipment to fit. If you going with late 70+ 351 heads forget it, they are the same thing as a 302 head, as far as, port design.
1.94/1.60 is a good valve upgrade you could go larger but you might decrease your piston options. later, lemme know more about that 335
Well I am still not sure what you have, but the usual applies, add the best flowing heads you can afford, bump the compression, add a cam that works with the engine components and vehicle its in, feed it the right amount of fuel and it should move up the road pretty good. later
there was a big block FE series 332, it was the same block as the 352. It employed a 3.3" stroke and a 4" bore, 10.17" deck height 2.02" intake valves, 1.55" exhuast and 6.54" rods with a really tall compression height of 1,938-1.953". Produced in 1958&1959. 225/265hp@4400/4600rpm, 260/325ft.lbs @ 2800/2200rpm.
boring cylinders will is meant to clean up the bores, not to gain power because it won't. the only thing you gain is extra heat. trust me i know i have a 302 bored .060 over and i have to use a 3 core and it still gets between 190 and 230 cruising.
Originally posted by f100guy boring cylinders will is meant to clean up the bores, not to gain power because it won't. the only thing you gain is extra heat. trust me i know i have a 302 bored .060 over and i have to use a 3 core and it still gets between 190 and 230 cruising.
302 blocks are notoriously thin, and shouldn't be bored past .040 over, because the water jackets become too close to the cylinder wall. The radiation of heat from the thin cylinder walls to the water jacket is causing the overheating. The 460 in the race truck is bored .060 over, and only gets over 205 when the radiator core is blocked from airflow.