Rear/4 wheel steering
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Rear/4 wheel steering
I'm curious to know what axle would be used if someone wanted to install a rear steer in a truck. I haven't seen any heavy front axles with a centered pumpkin but I know people have done this.
Also, what would have to be done with the gears and carrier to make it all run in the right direction or would it already be set up right?
If anyone has any experience with this I'd like to hear about it, or if you know of any articles and can post a link that would be cool.
Ivan
Also, what would have to be done with the gears and carrier to make it all run in the right direction or would it already be set up right?
If anyone has any experience with this I'd like to hear about it, or if you know of any articles and can post a link that would be cool.
Ivan
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Auburn,Al
you can pretty much doit with any axle.....thats a really broad question......http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forum...?s=&forumid=16
lurk around here for awhile and do a few searches..then youll see what i mean
lurk around here for awhile and do a few searches..then youll see what i mean
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Well way to go ho . . . you just opened up a whole new can of worms. 
Now I'm tempted to go hydraulic in the front as well!
Thanks for the link. There's a ton of useful articles and tips there.
Now I'm tempted to go hydraulic in the front as well!Thanks for the link. There's a ton of useful articles and tips there.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2002
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narrowed 2.5 ton rockwells have a centered differential after they are narrowed and they are still about as wide as a regular truck axle. if you are going to need full hydraulic steering you will need a strong set of axles
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Back to rear steer I've got Dana 60s right and I'd like to use Electrac lockers which they don't make for Rockwells (that I know of) so I'll probably stick with the 60s. I'm wondering if I can use my rear 60, cut the tubes, and add steering knuckles. Of course that brings me right back to $1000 plus which I'd pay for a Dana front.
Think I'll start with full hydro in the front and go from there. My truck is a pig to park so 4 wheel steering would be awesome.
"Axle - $1200, Rear steer hyrdraulics - $1600, seeing the look on people's faces when all 4 wheels steer . . . priceless! There are some things money can't buy, for everything else there's a welder."
Think I'll start with full hydro in the front and go from there. My truck is a pig to park so 4 wheel steering would be awesome.
"Axle - $1200, Rear steer hyrdraulics - $1600, seeing the look on people's faces when all 4 wheels steer . . . priceless! There are some things money can't buy, for everything else there's a welder."
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: canada
i tried this on a 44 so it would work on a 60. i CAREFULY cut the knuckles off with a grinder as close to them as possible. i then put the knuckle in a lathe and machined the inside out to almost the same diameter as the outside of the axle tube. i then took the rear axle and cut its flanges off. since this truck was for the farm only and not going on the roads i wasn't to concerned about camber and castor. i used a pin through the yokes to keep them paralel and square. i then tacked and stitched them on. i got the long shaft cut down and resplined and kept the stock parts from the yoke out. i used an orbital valve from a zoom boom with its hydraulic valve pack. it can crab, steer the same or lock out the rear. the front axle is also hydraulic. the mule is a chore to drive over 30 mph as it wanders really bad and has no feedback at all. its hard to get stuck and wheel pretty good. this is sitting in a jeep j20 with a 302/435/205 drivetrain. its a piece of junk but its neat to see if i could ever get all the manure off. this only cost me 5 weeks of winter tinkering time and about $500. but i did barter a bit. i hope you can use this info.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Thanks for the info gotstuk. Sounds like you did exactly what I'm looking into. Sean over on the pirate forum has put together some awesome hydro systems with sensors controling lockout and all that fancy stuff. I think I'm going to try hydraulic in the front this spring. The stock steering sucks horribly so I figure it can't get any more squirrely on the highway than it already is.
Apparently with P.O.S. rear steer you can have it controlled with the steering wheel, linked to the front for crap or circle, or you can lock it out and control it independantly with a joystick. I think it would be a trip. I've got access to a machine shop so I could build the back like you did. Just takes time I guess. I suppose if you really fiddled with the caster it would make a big difference in wander on the road.
Apparently with P.O.S. rear steer you can have it controlled with the steering wheel, linked to the front for crap or circle, or you can lock it out and control it independantly with a joystick. I think it would be a trip. I've got access to a machine shop so I could build the back like you did. Just takes time I guess. I suppose if you really fiddled with the caster it would make a big difference in wander on the road.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: canada
its actually a selector switch that controls a valve off the orbital attached to the steering shaft. it directs the oil to make the truck turn in unison ar crab with no stupid sensers to fail. check for old jcb zoom booms for parts.
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