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You don't have to pull the transmission, go get some longer 12 inch bolts and as you remove the transmission bolts, replace a few with the the 12 inch bolts. Slide the transmission back far enough to remove the torque converter and flex plate. Then when the new one is in place, just slide it back and finish the job.
I don't have a lot of info, but the last time I had my flex plate replaced (with a billet version) the trans guys said "You always have to disconnect the cooler lines on these when you move them. People like to leave them connected but they stretch, bend, and break. Then you got real problems"
Best of luck. Post up any tips you have after finishing it too. I had to replace mine 3 times before I got the billet installed. So far it's held three years, and previous OEM ones only lasted me about 18 months.
The absolute worst part about taking the transmission completely out from under the vehicle is that if you don't do the job on a hoist, you have to get the pickup so high off the ground for the bellhousing to clear the frame.
I roll the transmission rearward until I can lower the bellhousing side far enough down on the transmission jack to fit under the portion of the frame between the driveshaft and muffler (where it kicks up behind the cab).
I have a hoist but prefer to do these on the floor anyway.
Last edited by cleatus12r; Jun 2, 2026 at 12:23 PM.
The absolute worst part about taking the transmission completely out from under the vehicle is that if you don't do the job on a hoist, you have to get the pickup so high off the ground for the bellhousing to clear the frame.
I roll the transmission rearward until I can lower the bellhousing side far enough down on the transmission jack to fit under the portion of the frame between the driveshaft and muffler (where it kicks up behind the cab).
I have a hoist but prefer to do these on the floor anyway.
I'm old enough that the only thing I prefer to do on the floor is walk, lol.
I just looked at this thread on my PC. The phone screen neglected to show me that the transfer case is still attached to the transmission. I'm not trying to convince anybody that the way I do things is the right way but because of the ridiculous shape of the transmission pan, it's been my experience that trying to remove the transmission and transfer case at the same time is a fool's errand regardless of style of transmission jack, on the floor or off the floor, one person or three.
the problem for me was using 1x6 to support the transmission on the outer rails without 2 braces in the middle to prevent them slipping inward. Once that happened there was not enough height to reinstall so I pulled the whole operation out. Unfortunately with the limited straps and wood after re setting it on the jacks it flipped over. Couple more straps and it would have not occurred.
Have removed both at once before you need 2 transmission jacks or a ATv/moto jack on the transfer case. usually support the 2 independently not on a long board as shown in the photo. Ended up using a sawzawll cutting the board allowing room for the transmission support.
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