When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1990 XLT standard cab, I pulled the carpet back after removing the kick panel to pull the ECM and was greeted by cancer
I have ordered a replacement floor panel to cut off what I need but I can figure out what panels I need for the inner dogleg and that split you can see in the hole just above the cab support. The support is good and the rest of the floor rot is localized to the door sill trim screw penetrations, I’m just going to form some patches and weld them in.
Any assistance in defining what panels I should grab would be appreciated. I am no stranger to welding, just can’t seem to find a clear breakdown of how the cab is assembled.
Last edited by Canthelpmyself; May 31, 2026 at 05:39 PM.
Reseal your whole cowl area!! Your rusted out area is exactly where my broken cowl seal was leaking on the driver side. I also had it leaking on the passenger side as well. Pull the hood cowl, remove as much of old as possible and reseal all across top and down inside pockets between cab and fender through the holes. If you don’t have small hands/arms, it sucks! I sealed it, let it dry over night and then used a water hose to find where I missed. This happened 3 times haha! That’s why I say to use the whole tube and cover everywhere the first time.
i know nothing of body work to answer your questions.
Drive side where computer is. Inside passenger footwell Flashlight from inside driver side looking down hood cowl (removed)
Thanks for the heads up! I’m actually planning on pulling the cowl cover soon, I have to replace a seized wiper motor. I’ll schedule that work first before I get into the floor replacement, no sense fixing the rot and still letting water get in on top of it.
For S and Gs, once you remove the cowl, toss the water hose in the cowl and climb inside since you have the carpet pulled. You’ll see all the areas. A little before and after if you will. My worst area that leaked is actually the top of the computer pocket down the driver side inner fender area. It also has the most screws that love to stab you..
I mean, are these trucks in the salt belt? Salt on boots ends up rotting the drivers side pan. I literally take my boots off when I have to drive a vehicle in the salt that I care about (just before I spray the rest of the truck off)
Last edited by '89F2urd; May 31, 2026 at 06:32 PM.
Luckily for me, I had very superficial rust. I’ve only owned the truck a few years so I can’t say what people did before. I do know the mechanicals of the truck was rough! I don’t live near any salt and it’s barely ever used on roads here. Maybe 2-3 times a year, if that. I have rubber muck boots for bad weather and rubber floor mats. The other day I was actually in ankle deep nasty muck at my local dump.
This one is new to me, my neighbour needed a fast sale with a move coming up and unloaded it. The rest of it is super clean, I was actually surprised to see that kind of rot
it apparently lived most its life in PA and has been garage kept in Maryland for the past few years. Underneath is spotless.
This one is new to me, my neighbour needed a fast sale with a move coming up and unloaded it. The rest of it is super clean, I was actually surprised to see that kind of rot
it apparently lived most its life in PA and has been garage kept in Maryland for the past few years. Underneath is spotless.
That looks like a fairly new paint job! Clean looking, worth getting the bad fixed and sealed up for sure.
Last edited by 90project5.0; May 31, 2026 at 07:46 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
