I have a 2001 Super Duty Supercab 4x4 8800 GRVW V-10 Auto 4.30 long bed that was built in the Kentucky plant about Nov 2000. It has 24,000 miles now. It has been the roughest 24,000 of my life. At 14,000 I put Napa Reflex shocks on all four. It only improved the ride by about ten percent.
When you drive on asphalt it will bounce a little like the shocks are not hooked up, but when you get it on concrete interstate it bounces up and down so bad that your teeth rattle. I have had tires out of balance on my old 85 F250 4x4 SCab that did not jerk you around this bad. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I think the springs in the front are made out of a strange material but do not know how to test my theory. I have a friend with same type of truck and his does same thing. The dealer told him it was normal for a TOUGH truck to ride tough but I have had people with PSD Supercab tell me theirs rides smothly.

Dwayne

 

Try decreasing tire pressures

 

Maybe those NAPA shocks aren't up to the job, or at least giving you the ride you want. I've had good luck with my Rancho RS9000's because I can adjust them. Nice and soft for city driving and I stiffen them up for higher speeds and towing. I've also heard that the Bilsteins work very good on the Super Duty. Kind of a pricy experiment though, maybe you can find a good dealer that would let you try some out.

 

>> but I have had people with PSD Supercab tell me theirs rides smoothly.


Dwayne,

Both fellas above have good points. I would try playing with tire pressures. I also sounds as if the shocks aren't up to the task. Decreasing pressure may help but do not go too low! Read this.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID117/4304.html

One of the reasons why your PSD friends have a smoother ride is the weight of the PSD is greater than the V10.

The springs are made of normal spring steel. Nothing fancy.

 

>The
>dealer told him it was normal for a TOUGH truck to ride
>tough but I have had people with PSD Supercab tell me theirs
>rides smothly.
>
>Dwayne

When I got my truck it rode so rough my back would hurt after a short drive to work. I dumped the stock shocks and put Rancho RS9000 on, made all the difference in the world, no more back pain.

A friend of mine got a new Super Duty F-250 4x4 and he let me test drive it. Compared to my truck, that Super Duty felt like it was riding on air. So part of it is also what your use to. Trucks ride rougher then cars, it's a fact of life.

 

Ditto to the above on the shocks, and the other thing is the stock Fireblown Tires ride like JUNK even with lower air pressure. Try BFG's or Michelin...you won't believe the difference in the ride and stability.:+

 

There is a difference between rough or stiff and "bouncy".
These trucks are no doubt stiff, but shouldn't be bouncy.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Nov-02 AT 00:10 AM (EST)]Dwayne,

I installed Bilstein shocks on my 02' F350 SD 4x4 PSD RC after only 1,000 miles on stock crap shocks. The truck now sucks up the bumps and provides a much more enjoyable ride. Overall handling also greatly improved. I've installed these shocks on other vehicles and think they're worth every penny.

My door label for tire pressure also suggests 55(Front)/ 80(Rear). I run at 50/60 solo/empty and adjust when towing or loading and this also helps the ride. Now I'm trying to locate a steering stabilizer and can't believe Rancho doesn't make one for this truck...Gotta keep searching.

For what it's worth.

 

>Now I'm trying to locate a steering stabilizer and can't believe Rancho doesn't make one for this truck...Gotta keep searching.


Straight from their site.

F-250 99-01 (for reference)

RS97488 – Complete Kit
RS5406 – Shock
RS5542 – Bracket

Dana 60 axle (what you got)

RS97375 – Complete Kit
RS5403 – Shock
RS5512 - Bracket

 

Thanks Ken...I'm humbled. Took the word of a local speed shop and should have done the research on my own.

 

I'd suggest checking your tire pressure first. Too many people think they should be running the pressures listed on the door jamb. The label on the door jamb is assuming a truck is loaded to the GAWR’s (Gross Axle Weight Rating). If you are operating at a lower weight, you can reduce the pressure for better tire wear, smoother ride and better traction.

Here’s the proper way to determine what pressure to run in your tires. Weigh your truck, getting individual weights for each wheel (or at a minimum each axle). Then consult the tire inflation chart for your brand/model of tire. The chart will tell you what pressure to run based on your weight. If you got individual wheel weights, use the heaviest wheel on an axle to determine what pressure to run on all tires on that axle. If you weigh your truck unloaded you’ll need to do this again with your normal load. If your load fluctuates all the time, it’s probably easier to just keep the tires inflated to handle the highest load you anticipate.

In my case, I carry a 4000 lb slide-in camper occasionally. I keep the truck tires inflated for unloaded driving most of the time. Then before I load the camper, I pump them up for the extra weight. That way the truck rides smoothly with good traction and even tread wear while unloaded. If I was loading and unloading the camper daily or even weekly, I’d probably just keep the tires pumped up. Changing tire pressure daily on a dually would get old real quick.

It's a good idea to read the footnotes and fine print in tire inflation manuals also. For instance, in the Firestone manual it says that if you are driving for long periods at 65 to 74 mph, you should increase the tire pressure 10 psi (provided the wheels are rated to handle the pressure). In the case of the Firestone Steeltex 265/75-16 tire that would be 90 psi if you are at max load. This means that the 80 psi listed on the sidewall is not the max pressure. If you want to drive 75 to 84 mph , you still need those extra 10 psi, but you also need to reduce you max weight capacity by 10%.

You can view a tire inflation table for LT235/85-16 tires at http://www.goodyear.com/truck/pdf/LoadInflLTMetric.pdf .

Here’s the inflation table for the LT265/75R16 Firestone Steeltex tire

Weight Pressure
1910 35
2100 40
2280 45
2470 50
2625 55
2790 60
3000 65
3105 70
3260 75
3415 80

65-74mph add 10psi
75-84mph add 10psi & decrease max load 10%



Harald

2000 F350 4x4 CC DRW V10 4.30ls Lariat LWB.
Firestone Ride-rite airbags, Rancho RS9000 shocks and Torklift Superhitch.
1998 Alpenlite Pendelton 11'10" camper held on by Torklift tie downs.
Remove I_HATE_SPAM_ from email address to email me.

 

"It's a good idea to read the footnotes and fine print in tire inflation manuals also. For instance, in the Firestone manual it says that if you are driving for long periods at 65 to 74 mph, you should increase the tire pressure 10 psi (provided the wheels are rated to handle the pressure)n the case of the Firestone Steeltex 265/75-16 tire that would be 90 psi if you are at max load. This means that the 80 psi listed on the sidewall is not the max pressure. If you want to drive 75 to 84 mph , you still need those extra 10 psi, but you also need to reduce you max weight capacity by 10%."
__________________________________________________ ______________________


I have to strongly disagree with this part of harald's post.

Max inflation is max inflation. I wouldn't go beyond 80psi. The footnote is for situations where you have the tires inflated for less than the max weight.

For example, your weight is 2790lbs and you have 60psi in your tires according to the chart, however, for that weight (2790lbs) if you intend to drive over 65mph you should increase tire pressure to 70psi.

If you're at max. weight and 80psi, 65mph is your max. speed. Tires are also rated according to their ability to deal with high speeds and the associated heat. In effect, the chart is telling you that if you want to travel at speeds over ~65mph you should decrease the max. weight capactiy of each tire by 10%.

I DO NOT reccommend over inflating your tires, nor do the manufacturers. It can result in failure and lead to possible injury.

Waxy

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Dec-02 AT 05:44 PM (EST)]>>Now I'm trying to locate a steering stabilizer and can't believe Rancho doesn't make one for this truck...Gotta keep searching.
>
>
>Straight from their site.
>
>F-250 99-01 (for reference)


Try www.summitracing.com the part # is RS5404. The shock only costs $36.00, the mounting bracket is a little more.

 

if you still need new shocks... i'd look at the new pro-comp MX-6 shocks.... all the advantages of the bilstein (monotube design) and the rancho 9000 (adjustability). they are pricey, but imo, worth the coin... i think i'd have some if they made them for more than mild lift applications (they state only up to 4" lifts if memory serves me right).... i have heard rumors that they will make long travel versions at 12" and 14". so i promise to be the ginny when they come out.

air pressure can make a WORLD of difference as pointed out.... also, as pointed out the drawbacks are shorter tire life and if you go too low, the chance of busting a bead.... i have an old hardtail bike and run the rear tire at 14 psi (the tire's side says to run it at 35 psi), i have never had a problem and the ride is great at the lower pressure.

another thing to keep in mind is the weight factor of an unloaded bed.... add a few sandbags to the back and your ride will improve GREATLY!