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I find those install specs to be just a starting point because of, many variables. Just adjust that sleeve and lower torque to get around 20 lbs or so of pull. If using offset sleeves the adjustment is more difficult to get in range. I have a game scale I use to get close.
I find those install specs to be just a starting point because of, many variables. Just adjust that sleeve and lower torque to get around 20 lbs or so of pull. If using offset sleeves the adjustment is more difficult to get in range. I have a game scale I use to get close.
Thanks for the response. I am happy to report that I was able to get the other knuckle installed yesterday and the pull force is now within spec. Really glad that I didn't actually have to deal with wallowed out lower ball joint tapers.
I've had to use washers as well. But some have actually had decent luck drilling a new hole.
My take on it is that the modern parts are just not what they used to be. My first set of replacements (Moog) went in just like factory and adjusted perfectly the first time.
The next 10 or 15 ball joint replacements I've been involved with (other people's trucks) have ALL gone south quickly. We had to do the back and forth like you just went through with every one.
Most of the issue started with the sleeves not being able to reach the specified torque value. Even after the sleeve started sticking out the bottom of the yoke. Very frustrating having to do it 10 times and then just wing it for the win.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
