Hey guys. A month ago I finished my paint thread. I am happy with the paint job, but I seem to have a problem with the new window crank mechanisms or the channel/seals. The window is so tight in the channels that I have grab the open window with one hand and pull up when closing the window. I thought that would change with time. I thought it would 'break in', like a pair of stiff boots, but it hasn't changed.

I know that LMC only sells windows that are thinner than oem, and I was told by LMC that all their seals, etc., are designed to fit their thinner glass. I imagine that is why my glass is tight: I have oem thick glass and seals designed for LMC thin glass. The kicker is that no where on their site or catalog do they mention this. "Insert a long string of foul language here." And so with fresh paint I am forced to have to remove the channels and replace them. I'm so happy to have to pay twice.

 

I used, Steele Rubber Products.

 

I maybe mentioned before, we bought a '01 Mercury GM in late 2001. It was noticed that the power windows were slow, you could tell the motors worked hard. I took the car in to the dealer to get them fixed, the mechanic (whom I knew well) took it to his bay, invited me along. He took a can of spray silicone lube with the thin straw, held a rag at the channel with windows down around the straw, and while it was a new can, it was empty when done. He sprayed until it run out the door drain.

Fixed my concern.

Ever since, I do it occasionally on my vehicles, and I did it on my police cars after that.

 

Thanks tbear. I now do remember you mentioning that. I will try it. Is there a particular brand that you recommend?

 

I just buy a few cans at the Ollies "Good Stuff Cheap" store when I'm in there, no particular brand .... is just silicone spray lube.

On my police cars, that left rear window usually had a radar antenna hanging out, it really helped when in a hurry to pull that antenna in when driving my unmarked in if I saw a distant set of headlights overtaking me in a hurry at 2am, I could lower it, reach over my shoulder, pull the antenna in, zip the glass back up and even have my shoulder patch hidden by something before they got close enough to ID me before they blew past. It was those several radio antennas that would give me away.

Now that I think on it, I think I must have used it earlier than 2001 some. I just had never used it as heavy as that day at the Ford garage.

 

This is the silicone lube the Ford boy was supposed to be using on the sticky window channel weatherstrips
If none of this is around, a can of spray silicone is alright

 

Every 30K miles, you drip some of that down all the window channels and they'll work like a greased pig
Motorcraft part number XL-10

 

OK, so the late '70's E-series Vans had two thickness of glass. Yep - 5/32" and 7/32" with two choices of rubber channel strips available.
I've been putting off replacing the channel strips for decades on my '78 E250 4x4 Chateau wagon. _ _ I've the 5/32" glass in the front doors.
Recently, I got a bug in my britches, and did some snooping on FleaBay, then from there to the Seller's webpages.

I ordered the 5/32" glass channels, division bar channels and the horiz felts in a kit from MILLSUPPLY in Washington.
Upon ordering by phone, MillSupply drop ships from what I believe to be FairChild mfg back in the eastern U.S. of A. _ _ I'm in podunk Calif up near Oregon.

Somewhere in my travels, I remember seeing the sizing widths for both metal channels that hold the rubbers. Couldn't find it again to compare to mine.
Back in the late '90's, I replaced the rubber channels and felts in the driver's door, and the glass was sloppy.
What baffles me, is if the glass was sloppy, were my metal channels sized for 7/32" glass, and a previous owner had switched to 5/32" glass and didn't change the metal channels that the rubber strips seat into ? _ _ I may never know.
My "PLAN" is: - _ _ if the rubber channel strips are too narrow for the metal channels, I plan to just shim the difference on one side of the metal channels with one-sided tape.

The STEELE RUBBER products mentioned in post #2 above, seem to be the preferred rubbers, but they were FOUR-Times the price of FairChild products.
I wasn't prepared to spend $407.00 on Steele's kit. _ _ the kit I purchased from MillSupply was $108 with shipping. _ _ I sure hope they fit

_ _ _ time will tell.

 

I have the same problem, original windows and lmc felts. I bought a set of anti rattlers from rubber the right way for 40 bucks. I haven't installed the new ones yet. On the LMC stuff the channel felts seem ok but the anti rattlers don't fit well and one side gets smashed and rubs the window hard.

Anyway rubbertherightway has a bunch of parts for a decent price.

 

Maybe I'll try rubbertherightway. I tried the silicone and it barely lessened the force needed to roll up the window. I still need to pull up on the glass while rolling. What a annoyance.

 

Do you have to force it down as well ?

 

Hey there. No, I am able roll the windows down, but not with smooth cranking motion. I have to crank half a turn, stop, and half a crank again.

I remember when installing the lmc kit and the first window was frozen in place, unable to move, so I removed it and ordered from DC. I replaced the seals about 20 years back and had no problem.
To have to grease the seals is an insult.
I know that I keep harping on this, but that lmc doesn't notify their customers is a corporate FU.

 

Today I went out and, after having applied a silicone lube some days back, to zero affect, I applied grease into the separation bar channel, and holy crap, I can almost roll up my windows!

But I'm fed up. Neither DC nor LMC seals allow me to roll up my windows? Holy cow! I'm ready to tear them out and try a different brand. I do notice that the oe side window requires less force to roll up, and that leads me to wonder about the bend/bow in the Auto Metal Direct replacement window. Truth is, I'm not sure where to begin with the process of trouble shooting. I seem to be throwing good money after bad. The problem could be the replacement crank mechanisms, the rubber seals, and/or the replacement driver side window.

I mean, when you have a retailer/supplier (LMC) who you have trusted for years, and they suddenly begin selling windows and rear glass and windshields that are thinner than oem glass, and they decide to not mention this to the people they are selling to, nor do they mention that all their window rubber is designed for the thinner glass, again w/o telling the people who are buying it, that is a royal FU. How is that for corporate loyalty?

You know, I'm seriously considering selling the truck. This problem with the window seals just seems to sum up the situation with so many other types of parts for these old trucks. If this was a Sunday driver, I would not sweat it. But my truck is a daily driver and when you can't even buy decent window seals, Not from LMC nor DC, it makes me want to just be rid of the whole mess.

 

I bought the brake cables from them. They did work but would find another supplier next time.

 

hey guys. At this point I'm wondering if I installed something incorrectly, although I did not think that possible.
Without the seals the window rolls up and down fine. With the LMC seals any movement at all was impossible. I thought I would strip the crank mechanism if I forced it.
With the DC set windows barely move. When greased up, the window is still hard to roll up, but it does go up.
I'm afraid to buy another set of seals because I may get the same result. Any suggestions??