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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

85 f250 460 engine.

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Old May 3, 2026 | 08:14 AM
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dremtofford
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From: pine city washington
85 f250 460 engine.

Finally got the timing right ish, it is on tdc no.1 on compression. i had to remove the valve cover and check for valve overlap. i tried by removing no.1 plug and checking the compression that way but it felt the same on the exhaust and compression. Now I just need an ignition module. I had a brand new Amazon model, and it worked until i left it on for a week. Now, there's no spark again. Oh, well, that was 40 bucks down the drain. it is the pastor's truck and has been sitting for 15 years and he is tight with the money.
 
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Old May 3, 2026 | 08:54 AM
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When the valve cover was off did you see both valves move on #1 cylinder?
I ask because if it had been sitting that long and sometimes shorter, the valves can stick, like maybe the exhaust valve?
Dave ----
 
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Old May 3, 2026 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dremtofford
Now I just need an ignition module. I had a brand new Amazon model, and it worked until i left it on for a week. Now, there's no spark again...
No more mind-reading pills from Temu for me! Total waste of my money.

Trying to decipher your present situation. Are you saying the truck ran okay with this module, so the timing issue is reasonably squared away? But then you accidentally left the ignition powered for a week and killed the module? If so, a new module should take care of the situation.

Is that the scenario? Or is there more to it?

 
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Old May 3, 2026 | 03:27 PM
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He said he does not have spark. No matter where the timing is at, he needs spark. He admitted to leaving the module power on all week. I would double check the ignition coil also. They can get hot and burn up if they are left on.

Take the connector off the coil. Put a temp battery power to the coil + with a wire leading over to the battery + post. Get your spark check ready and hook it to the lead coming out of the center of the coil. Get another short piece of wire, hook it to the negative of the coil, and then touch this piece of wire to a good ground for a instant. Each time you touch the wire to ground and then take it off, the coil should generate spark.
 
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Old May 3, 2026 | 08:53 PM
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From: pine city washington
i checked the coil it is borderline the connection is bad and the wires are bare yes both valves moved. it was just 180 out it would fire with starting fluid but backfire. so i moved the dist 180 and then it started downpouring so i grabbed my stuff and put it in my car and left. then remembered two days later about the key. i was recovering from pneumonia, so i didn't get back to it for a week. nobody tests these modules anymore.
 
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