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I touched red lead to blue with orange stripe with the key on and off, and the black lead to various grounded pieces of metal in the truck. It's getting 0.01 - 0.03V in each configuration.
Quick question, i looked over the wiring diagram for this plug. I’m getting power to the tan / white like I’m supposed to, but not the blue orange. Can I jump the tan / white to the blue / orange to bypass the system to get it power in an emergency situation, or is that not a good idea? I’m assuming the tan / white likely gives you parking lights, brake lights, tail lights, etc, and the blue / orange gives you headlights?
I wouldn't tough any wire to anything else until you know what the intended outcome would be.
I do not see tan and white on that diagram. The DB/OG wire is your power feed to the lights. The 30A fuse location #10 circled in red (post#12), You should have a 12v voltage reading when you put your red lead to wither side of the fuse holder with your black lead touching any metal ground, the fuse must be in place. Remove the fuse and you should only have voltage opposite the DB/OR fuse connector where it says "Hot at all Times". With that said follow the DB/OR through the schematic. Your next measurement point will be the 196 pin location or terminal which is DB/OG, you should have 12v there too measured the same way with your leads, following DB/OR the next measurement point is pin 8 on the headlight switch. You should have 12v or so there. The S214 black dot indicates a splice where the DB/OR splits. If you have 12v on wither test point, than the splice is good. Once voltage is measured at the multi function switch, here is the diagram to proceed measuring the multi function switch....
Some additional info, and you may already know this
all numbers preceded with an S are splices
all numbers proceeded with a G are grounds
all numbers ending in M (male) or F (female) or A, B, C Etc preceded with a C are plug connector(s)
all the 2 letter and 1 letter notations IE: DB/OG, BK/WH, RD/LB, Y are obviously wire color codes
all the numbers to the left of the wire color codes are the circuit numbers IE: ( 196 DB/OR )
Last edited by 01__Excursion; Apr 26, 2026 at 06:48 AM.
Can I jump the tan / white to the blue / orange to bypass the system to get it power in an emergency situation, or is that not a good idea? I’m assuming the tan / white likely gives you parking lights, brake lights, tail lights, etc, and the blue / orange gives you headlights?
Not recommended. The TN-WH circuit is only capable of handling 15A of current, the headlight circuit is fused at 30A as the headlights require significantly more current than does the other circuit.
Note: Regarding the suggestion to test the MFS, if you're missing the power to the switch, testing the switch is unnecessary as the problem is upstream from the switch.
Last edited by projectSHO89; Apr 26, 2026 at 06:23 AM.
Not recommended. The TN-WH circuit is only capable of handling 15A of current, the headlight circuit is fused at 30A as the headlights require significantly more current than does the other circuit.
Note: Regarding the suggestion to test the MFS, if you're missing the power to the switch, testing the switch is unnecessary as the problem is upstream from the switch.
I bit the bullet and took the dash apart and followed the wires. The splice to the wheel switch was rubbing and bare copper was visible. Fixed, now have lights. Thanks for the persistent assistance
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