I have had a 2001 F-350 with the 7.3 for about 2 years. 240000 miles. I started having issues about a year ago which has caused me to replace the IPR, HPOP, CPS, and IPS. I also installed new HP hoses, a crossover hose kit and a back pressure valve delete turbo pedestal. I also have new batteries and battery cables. I have not replaced the injector O-rings yet. For some reason my scan tool will not recognize this truck but will recognize my 2000 F-150 which has made the troubleshooting more difficult. I have noted that the trucks tach will not indicate rotation when I have a no start but as soon as it does indicate rotation I get an immediate start. With an extended crank I get oil pressure indication. I am running Rotella T6 and have oil about 1/2” below the fill port on the HPOP reservoir. The trucks cold start performance improved greatly after replacing the CPS and will restart after cooling down for about 30 minutes. When I replaced the CPS, I removed a gray unit and installed an OE black unit. I have read through the other threads on this topic that I can find and have not found a set of symptoms that match mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
puzzled

 

What scan tool are you using? How recent was the IPR replacement and did you use genuine Motorcraft?

The next time you have this hot no-start, try spraying the IPR's coil with an upside down can of computer duster to cool it. Then see if it fixes the problem temporarily.

Side inquiry: What kind of aviation are you in?

 

When my IPR went bad it wouldn't run until it cooled down. Kudos on your reported history.

Never though about the dust cleaner, good idea.

 

Tach indicating no rotation sounds like a bad cam position sensor to me. They utilize a Hall effect sender and they work fine until they don't. I've lost count how many I had to replace over the years on vehicles that would just randomly stall out or simply fail to start. Even if you have replaced it, throw another one in there and also replace the connectors inside the plug.
I would also take the plug off at the engine control unit and and at the big plug on the top of the driver's side valve cover to verify zero corrosion anywhere.

 

Any difference after an oil change?

 

FWIW.
My tach reads zero until it starts.
I don't know about extended cranking though. Haven't done that in a while.

 

you replaced a lot of items and the injector oring on top can leak into crank case when warm
To test this remove Valve covers and bring to temp via idle
oil should only come from the bolted on spout not the base of injector

 

I am the MX manager for JSX in LAS.

 

The scan tool is a Zurich dongle displayed on my I pad. I got tired of spending several hundred dollars on units off my tool truck to have them not supported in a few years.

 

There was no change when I did an oil change.

 

Sweet! I used to be a flight test engineer.

Is it SAE J1939 compliant? Our trucks are picky when it comes to OBD compatibility. You may want to read this section:

FORScan/FORScan LITE Class and Q&A

(Multi-page thread 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)

 

If your 2001 has the last model cluster (has trans temp and digital odometer) I don’t believe the tach will move when cranking. It for sure doesn’t on 02 and 03.

 

The truck has a mechanical odometer.

 

When I was able to get back after this job today I noted an indicator that happened when I turned the key on that identified if it would start or not. If the tach jumps when you first turn on the key, it will not start and the tach will not indicate. If the tach does not jump, after a short crank it starts right up with the tach indicating. I got 1 longer crank before start today on the second start after the truck was sitting for 2 weeks and the tach was indicating prior to start for several of rotations. This indicates to me that I have an electronic issue somewhere, not a mechanical issue. Has any one noted this before or have any other ideas.

I also noted that this issue was not following the engine temp. If I have a no start, If I wait a few minutes it will normally start right up. I do think to this point I was chasing multiple issues as it is giving me different symptoms now.

 

Time to start cleaning all the grounds, reseat all the relays, reseat all the umbilical plugs, etc. After 20+ years, I don't think it matters whether it's in the rust belt or not, corrosion works it's way in and has to be dealt with. It starts in between the contacts down inside of the plugs and is basically microscopic insulators where the connectors make contact with the pins. It just grows from there. I had a throttle response issue a couple of years ago that was cleared up simply by replacing the connectors in the plug for the pedal assembly. Been rock solid ever since. Same principle applies to "choose your random issue" from CPS connections all the way up to the ECU plug needing some attention. Tedious but necessary work.