Swapped a Delco 10SI onto my 8BA. I was planning to wait until I installed a dual carb manifold, but I didn’t want to keep putting time or money into a generator I wasn’t going to run long-term.





I didn’t cut any of the original generator wiring—just taped it up and tucked it out of the way so it can be reused later if needed.

For wiring, I ran 4 AWG cable with 125-amp fuses on both ends and tied it into the starter solenoid on the battery positive side.

For anyone running a Speedway adapter with a 5/8” wide pulley setup: I had to switch belts. The Napa 25-20544 I was already using was too short, so I went with a 25-22553, which is a little over an inch longer. I still had to loosen the alternator mounting bolts and tip it in to get the belt on, but it was in stock locally so I didn’t have to wait.

Right now there’s about 1.5” of belt deflection (started closer to 3”), and I still have a bit of adjustment left in the bracket. Hoping once the belt stretches in, it’ll settle where it needs to be.

Voltage-wise, I’m seeing 14.72V at high idle right after a cold start. After about 15 minutes of idling, it dropped to around 13.8V.

This setup should let me run a Pertronix ignition along with additional brake lights and turn signals without worrying about overloading the system.

 

Looks like a very nice setup.
On the Pertronix part, just me, I would skip the Pertronix II ignitor module (calling it the P2 unit just for reference). I have had all three of the different electronic Ignitors modules (the little unit that eliminates the points) and the P1 and P2 matching coils . The P2 was the only one that gave me problems. So when I was trying to decide if I wanted to replace it with the P3, I read some reviews and saw other folks had issues with the P2 also. I called Pertronixs and talked to their support folks, they wouldn't really talk about the P2s, but told me I could keep the P2 coil which has a higher resistance and go with a P3 Ignitor module. I figured that could be a good move as less current will flow through the Ignitor module and the coil so the Ignitor would run cooler. That was several years ago and many road trips and there has been zero problems with it.

EDIT:
I probably got ahead of myself here. A P2 or P3 unit may not be available for your engine. (I am running a small block 302.) But if a P1 unit is, its a good unit.

 

I bought 1283, just says igniter in description.

 

I clicked on the link and it's for 12 volt positive ground. I know you running 12 volts with that new Delco 10SI Alternator, but aren't you now negative ground? Or is your 10SI converted to + ground?

 

Should be fixed, I have a 12 volt negative ground 1283, Pertronix website is kind of confusing as a style 1283 has multiple voltages and polarities.

 

Yes it is confusing. I have just ended up looking in the Summit catalog for their products when I wanted one. I think you will like it!

 

Pertronix type units are great when they work, but in my experiences they can be shown to be extremely electrically delicate. I've reverted many installations as it is much quicker in a pinch and more cost effective to install points and condensers again than to replace the faulty Pertronix unit.

 

I agree—points are plenty reliable when everything’s set up right. I’ll keep the ballast resistor, points, and condenser in the glove box just in case. This’ll be my third time using one. First was years ago in a VW Beetle (pretty sure it had a Bosch 007). Last one I did was on my F3 with a 226 flat six. I had brand new points in it, set with a dwell meter, and it already started and ran great. But after putting the Pertronix in, it fired up even easier—didn’t even need choke at that point. That kinda sold me on them.