Second Alternator Belt
I recently picked up a Power Master Alt (477591) it’s much more power than what’s currently sitting in my truck. Before installing I’m guessing that one V-belt isn’t going to hold at least not in the long run.
my question is how can I swap it to a 2 belt set up? Is it as easy as upgrading the water pump pulley to a 2 sheave and then adding the extra belt? Here are pictures of my current set up. Seems pretty straight forward but I’m a noob and want to double check.
1968 f-100
fe360
Ford Truck Part Numbers (Pulley, Water Pump) - FORDification.com
Mine was simpler, in that I found a matching crank and water pump pulley, and did not have any other accessories to worry about. Just added the dual alternator pulley, and away I went. But it's not always that easy with Ford.
If the grooves/sheaves are the same, then you're good to go. If not, then the two belts will try to rotate the alternator at different speeds.
The crank pulley on my '79 won't allow that, so my option would be to get a larger diameter pulley for the alternator. Not as good as dual belts, but more wrap and grip from one belt is still a good thing.
Paul
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It is a beast of an alternator, 200 amp. Probably overkill for my current set up but was too good of a deal on Facebook to pass up. Should allow for upgrades power wise in the future!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The good news is that our trucks were already wired with the BAT output wire directly to the battery (via the starter relay post of course) so you only need to upgrade it a couple of sizes and install a Mega or Midi fuse holder with a 225a rated fuse.
Depending on how long of a run the wire is when you re-do it, a 6ga (battery cable size) cable should work. But even Ford used 4ga on some applications where the run was exceptionally long. Such as some full-size vans.
And those were only 130a rated alternators!
Figure you might already have done that, but wanted to make sure. You most definitely don't want to run a 200a alternator on a measly 10ga wire for very long. Which is I think the size Ford used on these trucks. But with only one or two feet of length, a 10ga wire is fine for at least 70a rated units. Maybe even the rare-ish 100a units that were available as options on some vehicles.
But I would have up-sized the wire even on those. Which I did on my '79 when I changed to a 105a large-case 1G many moons ago. Think I used 8ga at the time.
Paul
The good news is that our trucks were already wired with the BAT output wire directly to the battery (via the starter relay post of course) so you only need to upgrade it a couple of sizes and install a Mega or Midi fuse holder with a 225a rated fuse.
Depending on how long of a run the wire is when you re-do it, a 6ga (battery cable size) cable should work. But even Ford used 4ga on some applications where the run was exceptionally long. Such as some full-size vans.
And those were only 130a rated alternators!
Figure you might already have done that, but wanted to make sure. You most definitely don't want to run a 200a alternator on a measly 10ga wire for very long. Which is I think the size Ford used on these trucks. But with only one or two feet of length, a 10ga wire is fine for at least 70a rated units. Maybe even the rare-ish 100a units that were available as options on some vehicles.
But I would have up-sized the wire even on those. Which I did on my '79 when I changed to a 105a large-case 1G many moons ago. Think I used 8ga at the time.
Paul
Definitely going to upsize the charge wires. Honestly probably not going to install this new Alt until I get a rewire kit and do the whole truck (hopefully soon).
As far as the Mega fuse is this a must? Here is a picture of Power Master very extensive install guide.
But if you want it wired safely, at least similar to how Ford does it from the factory, then yes, you'll either need a fusible link setup, a Mega-Fuse setup, or a Midi-Fuse setup.
Ford uses fusible links on most, and the occasional Mega-Fuse on Mercury Mountaineers at least, but they have always had some form of protection.
Even your old original should have a fusible link in one end. Usually at the battery/starter relay end.
Check your existing wire and see how it's done. Not sure why Powermaster does not list anything, other than to say "do not use original 2G harness" but you might call them and ask what their feelings are on the subject.
For now, if you're not using the more powerful alternator, then you don't need to do anything with your wiring.
Is the alternator in your pictures an original Ford unit? Got pics of the backside connections? If not, please take some the next time you have it off.
Thanks.
Paul
I’ll snag a pic next time it’s out.
another question for you. I found a guy with a 3 sheave water pulley off a 360 near but he can’t get the part number on it. He said it’s coming off a truck with AC and PS. Believe it has to be #C8AE-8509-C as that’s the only 3 sheave unit coming off those engines.
I’m trying to figure out if it will match with crank pulley diameter wise but I also can’t find the part number lol. Also getting confused because I think this is a 4 sheave crank pulley unless one is just a spacer but I don’t think it is. Can’t find a 4 sheave anywhere on this list. https://www.fordification.com/partno...ankshaftFE.htm
but as I’ve been saying for decades, you never know with FORD…
I have a similar one, if not the exact same one, on my 79 with a 400. I don’t know the number either because it’s installed. But I can get a picture at some point and we can compare.
I’m pretty sure I was stymied when trying to do a dual belt for the alternator on that truck.
But it’s been a while, so I don’t remember the details.














