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Hi fellas, got two new questions.
1#: My single wire oxygen sensor is dead, and they're hard to get, so I was thinking to go with a three wire heated sensor. Anybody know what one will fit into my stock standard exhaust manifold (1985 F350 with an Aussie built Windsor 5 litre EFI v8)? Any problems with the computer reading the signal correctly?
2#: I've just rebuilt my rear drum brakes. Can't seem to find the sweet spot where the brakes lock correctly when the parking brake is applied, but don't drag when it is released. Is there any trick to getting it right?
If by "ebrake cables" you mean the cables from the equaliser to the left and right rear wheel parking brake levers...yup, certainly did. I followed the manual by adjusting first the service brakes until they were just contacting the drum, then tightened the cable connecting to the foot pedal in the cabin. Also, I haven't been able to find a replacement for the cable tension limiter which the manual says to replace once the free end of the "U" contacts its housing--is that critical?
Last edited by BigBeast; Mar 27, 2026 at 01:04 PM.
Hi Kultulz, thanks for the input. Sure, we have an after market industry, but not necessarily an informed one. Can't beat the knowledge you guys have on F trucks!
As it appears to be a good idea to switch to a heated oxygen sensor, I was just wondering if the computer would have any problems reading the sensor correctly if I got a three wire sensor (for perhaps a 1986 or 1987 truck). Thanks though for that Bosch part number...I'll put it into a search and see what comes up.
PREVIOUS - 2#: I've just rebuilt my rear drum brakes. Can't seem to find the sweet spot where the brakes lock correctly when the parking brake is applied, but don't drag when it is released. Is there any trick to getting it right?
If by "ebrake cables" you mean the cables from the equaliser to the left and right rear wheel parking brake levers...yup, certainly did. I followed the manual by adjusting first the service brakes until they were just contacting the drum, then tightened the cable connecting to the foot pedal in the cabin. Also, I haven't been able to find a replacement for the cable tension limiter which the manual says to replace once the free end of the "U" contacts its housing--is that critical?
To adjust rear drum brakes, you run the adjuster all the way up until the shoes make a hard stop against the drums. This centers the drum brake assy on the backing plate.
You then back them off until you can spin by hand each wheel approx. 3/4 to a full turn. Apply the brakes. This will again center the shoes. Adjust again if necessary to get the same drag on the wheel(s).
You then adjust the parking brake so it firmly holds the vehicle on a grade, out of gear. You don't want to over-tighten.
Make sure the rear axle is not hanging down as this will partially apply the brake cables.
Again check for free spin.
The new shoes will take a while to seat in properly and may have to be adjusted again manually until the self-adjusting feature takes over (a few thousand miles).
The wheel cylinders were good and no sticking/binding? Did you flush/bleed the system?
Hi Kultulz, thanks for the input. Sure, we have an after market industry, but not necessarily an informed one. Can't beat the knowledge you guys have on F trucks!
As it appears to be a good idea to switch to a heated oxygen sensor, I was just wondering if the computer would have any problems reading the sensor correctly if I got a three wire sensor (for perhaps a 1986 or 1987 truck). Thanks though for that Bosch part number...I'll put it into a search and see what comes up.
You need the correct O2 as per vehicle assembly (CALIBRATION CODE). The ECM will most likely not read a heated sensor. It was not calibrated for that.
The PN I showed is a BOSCH sensor and should be available down there. Ask the parts dude to run it.
Have you removed the old sensor? If so and it is FORD, there should be ID NOS. on it.
I don't think either AU or NZ uses the same PN SYSTEM for this period vehicle as US.
I haven't replaced my tension limiter. It's not needed unless you over tighten the cable. I adjust mine so that when the brake is released there will be a little bit of play in the cable at the equalizer. You don't want it flopping all over the place. Just enough slack to ensure the brakes are released. When setting the brake don't slam down the pedal to the bottom. Feel the tension and apply what you need for the situation. If on the level you don't need to punch it down. If on a grade you might push it down a few more clicks.
Good to be back, MC: knew I could count on you guys to put me straight.
One thing with my equaliser...when fully set up and connected, it's not anywhere near vertical like yours. One of the cables comes out from the mounting plate quite a bit more than the other, meaning that the equaliser is angled almost 45 degrees off the vertical to take up the slack. Would that make a difference? It was the same when I had the old cables connected. I figured the cable had stretched somehow, and it was the main reason why I replaced the pair of them; but as I have the same issue with the new ones, I guess it's not that. Should I weld a spacer of some kind on the equaliser so as to make it sit more vertical?
I totally rebuilt the drum brakes, Kultulz. Had the drums machined, new oil seals, repacked the bearings, new wheel brake cylinders, new brake cables and a full new kit of springs. The one thing that I didn't do was bleed the system (needed a new bleeding kit). Pedal is pretty firm though...
I'll redo my adjustment process the way you suggest and see what happens.
Thanks again for that o2 sensor part number...I gave it to a dealer and he thinks he can find one.
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