No Start Condition
Hello all, looking for tips here, I recently replaced the head gaskets on my 1995 F150 2wd 351w and now it will crank but won't start. In the process, I:
-Pulled the front end apart
-Drained coolant, ATF, and evacuated refrigerant
-Replaced the grill, headlights, and their bezels (parking and turn signal are currently disconnected)
-Replaced the header panel
-Replaced the radiator core support and bushings
-Replaced the air charge sensor
-Replaced the bolts on the lower intake manifold
-Replaced the bolts on the exhaust manifold
-Cleaned everything up with wire brushes and soft strippers
-Replaced all gaskets above the head gaskets (lower intake manifold, valve covers, upper intake manifold, etc)
Currently, I know I am getting spark, I can smell fuel (but can't rule out that some injectors might not be firing), I do not have an air blockage. Im wondering if it is possible that disconnecting something is preventing a strong enough spark from arcing, if a disconnecting a vacuum line might have had an effect, if the crash sensors might be causing them (they got bumped around a little in the process of remove and installation), or if someone has an obscure check I should make. Oh, and I followed the Haynes manual for finding cyl 1 TDC to verify my spark timing is that good or do y'all have a better method that doesn't involve pulling the passenger side valve cover off again?
Videos below, one along passenger side for cylinder #1 spark plug, one with brake booster in background is ignition coil, third is just to show cranking.
-Pulled the front end apart
-Drained coolant, ATF, and evacuated refrigerant
-Replaced the grill, headlights, and their bezels (parking and turn signal are currently disconnected)
-Replaced the header panel
-Replaced the radiator core support and bushings
-Replaced the air charge sensor
-Replaced the bolts on the lower intake manifold
-Replaced the bolts on the exhaust manifold
-Cleaned everything up with wire brushes and soft strippers
-Replaced all gaskets above the head gaskets (lower intake manifold, valve covers, upper intake manifold, etc)
Currently, I know I am getting spark, I can smell fuel (but can't rule out that some injectors might not be firing), I do not have an air blockage. Im wondering if it is possible that disconnecting something is preventing a strong enough spark from arcing, if a disconnecting a vacuum line might have had an effect, if the crash sensors might be causing them (they got bumped around a little in the process of remove and installation), or if someone has an obscure check I should make. Oh, and I followed the Haynes manual for finding cyl 1 TDC to verify my spark timing is that good or do y'all have a better method that doesn't involve pulling the passenger side valve cover off again?
Videos below, one along passenger side for cylinder #1 spark plug, one with brake booster in background is ignition coil, third is just to show cranking.
Pull the number 1 plug and put your finger over the hole. Turn the crank until the air pushes your finger away. Look down at the timing marks. Turn the crank whichever way is closest to get the timing mark with 10 degrees btdc., pull the distro cap and verify the rotor button is pointing To the point on cap with the number 1 plug on it. If that’s accurate, put the cap back on and verify you have the wires in the correct firing order going in the correct direction (counterclockwise on cap). It sounds like the timing is off if you are getting spark and fuel.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Mar 24, 2026 at 03:26 PM.
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