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Old Dec 11, 2002 | 07:45 AM
  #1  
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Auto Transmission

 
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Old Dec 13, 2002 | 01:57 PM
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Have a 2002 F250 V10, Auto, 4x4, Borla headers, K&N. I pull a 28 ft 5ver in the summer. I want to firm up and take the slop out of the tranmission shifts. Not really interested in a chip now but may do that later. I've read some posts about Tricumulator Springs and the Sonnex valve. Will these mechanical devices firm the shifts? If I add a chip in the future will the mechanical devices and the chip complement or cancel out each other? Are they hard to install in the transmission? Do they come with good installation instructions? Should I change to a synthetic trans fluid if I install the devices? Appreciate any recommendations or comments. TTrox
 
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Old Dec 13, 2002 | 03:33 PM
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Auto Transmission

I have a 2000 F350 V10 and I installed the Banks TransCommand. I did this along with the Banks headers and exhaust components. The shifting really firmed up. The TransCommand sells for about $230.00 and took me about 20 minutes to install.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2002 | 04:04 PM
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Auto Transmission

I have heard that the springs and the valve are the way to go. The Banks TransCommand does work, but it increases the line pressure in the transmission to firm up the shifts. I have the manual, but if I did have the automatic, I would prefer the spring and valve combination over the chip just changing the line pressure. I may be wrong, but to me it would seem to me that over time the spring and valve would be less strenuous on the tranny than the increase in hydraulic pressure.

2002 F-250 Lariat, 7.3L PSD, 6 Spd Manual, 4x4 Off Road Package, Line-X Liner, grille gaurd, soft tonneau, altezza tail lights(they add at least 15 HP ), and more to come...
 
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Old Dec 13, 2002 | 07:20 PM
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Auto Transmission

I have a 2000 F-250 4x4 V-10 and pull at 26 ft Sunny Brook TT with it, about 6000 to 7000 pounds. I installed the sonnex valve and tricumulator springs about a year ago. They really firmed up the shifts, no more mushy hesitating shifts. In fact if you nail the throttle to the floor from a dead stop it will chirp the tires when it shifts from 1 to 2. The install was really easy, took me about an hour and a half to do the complete job including clean up. It is a little messy, fluid will continue to drip from the ports when you remove the valve body. I replaced the filter and switched over to Mobil 1 syntheic fluid at the same time. I would definitely reccomend this mod. I bought my parts from http://www.techtranstool.com/, they were really friendly, and very helpful. From the time I placed the order to the time I recived the parts was less the 48 hours. The only thing I don't know and need to research is I'm planning on buying a SCMT (Super Chips Micro Tuner) I don't know if using the SCMT and the valve and spring combination will make the shifs too aggressive.

GAV10 Mark
 
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Old Dec 14, 2002 | 02:19 PM
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GAV 10

When you changed fluid were you able to drain the torque converter? Does it have a drain plug or did you have to pump the fluid out by removing one of the lies to the cooler?

Thanks for the recommendation on the springs & valve. Think I will do over Christmas. TTrox
 
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Old Dec 14, 2002 | 02:47 PM
  #7  
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Auto Transmission

See the FAQ to get the how-to on changing ALL the tranny fluid easily.

____________________________

I thought on the SCMT you could calibrate the shift firmness. If you chip it, it would make sense for you to tell the chip dealer (online store) what you have installed and let him guide you from there.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2002 | 09:38 PM
  #8  
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Auto Transmission

Regarding line pressure...
It seems that the valve/spring combo would increase it mechanically whereas the Transcommand would do it electronically. Anyone know if that's true?

On changing fluid...
Didn't Ford stop putting a drain in the torque converter for '02? If so, you'll want to use the method described in the FAQs.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2002 | 10:48 PM
  #9  
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Auto Transmission

Regarding line pressure...

True.

It has been said that the "safer" method for increasing line pressure is mechanically.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2002 | 04:47 PM
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Auto Transmission

My 2000 has a drain plug in the converter, not sure about the 2002's. The way I drained mine was to take a ratchet with a long hanle with the appropiate size socket. I lie flat on my back under the vehicle, with my feet sticking out just forward of the left front wheel. With the rubber plug removed from the bell housing gently place one finger from you left hand in the hole to feel the torque converter. This leaves your right/hand arm free to turn the engine. The engine turns really easy, just take it slow and easy. You will feel the plug rotate around to the bottom 6:00 position. I did not know about Mark Kolvasky's procedure when I did mine. So I drained the converter manually, and blew out the lines using compressed air. I think Mark's procedure would be easier and not as messy.

GAV10 Mark
 
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