Help with wiring
If you are wanting to replace the plug, NPD sells one that you can splice in your wires.
Alternator Voltage Regulator Connection Repair Harness - #14R290-1A - National Parts Depot
If you are just wanting to clean up your existing plug you might try some electrical contact cleaner to see if that helps.
Alternator Voltage Regulator Connection Repair Harness - #14R290-1A - National Parts Depot
If you are just wanting to clean up your existing plug you might try some electrical contact cleaner to see if that helps.
Is that three yellow wires that I see? Interesting. Although, with the empty space at the upper end, I’m guessing your truck has an ammeter instead of a battery light?
If that’s the case, then the lower wire should be in the “F” position. And that is your Orange field wire running directly between the regulator and the “FLD” terminal on the back alternator.
Next step up is the red wire, which was originally green with a red stripe and should go to the “S” position. This has 12 V with the ignition switch in the ON position only.
third up should be the “A“ position and is usually populated by two yellow wires. One is just a short pigtail going to a radio noise suppression capacitor. That’s probably the one with the black push connector that is just visible in your picture. The other main yellow wire should have full battery voltage at all times.
The “I” position of the regulator and connector should be blank/empty
If your truck has a battery lamp after all, and no ammeter, the wiring is slightly different.
If that’s the case, then the lower wire should be in the “F” position. And that is your Orange field wire running directly between the regulator and the “FLD” terminal on the back alternator.
Next step up is the red wire, which was originally green with a red stripe and should go to the “S” position. This has 12 V with the ignition switch in the ON position only.
third up should be the “A“ position and is usually populated by two yellow wires. One is just a short pigtail going to a radio noise suppression capacitor. That’s probably the one with the black push connector that is just visible in your picture. The other main yellow wire should have full battery voltage at all times.
The “I” position of the regulator and connector should be blank/empty
If your truck has a battery lamp after all, and no ammeter, the wiring is slightly different.
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ChrisCCC
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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