Pardon my ignorance, and hyjack, on this subject as I have been running the standard Ford alt setup forever and never had an issue. My '65 still sports the original regulator.

Do these trucks run a "1G" alternator? And while I agree the factory setup has enough to get the job done, what am I looking for "if" the alt decides to exit the chat, as they say? The charge light flickers occasionally at idle or low RPM. The wiring is already a mess, so if I have to change I might as well join the lemmings and upgrade?

 

Flickering could be caused by a loose or worn out belt.

 

I here you, i didnt even go with a much larger Alternator. I was just already having problems with the 1g regulator on a build that was just 6 months old at the time. The voltage regulator would hunt constantly. This 3g runs rock steady at 14.2v with everything on, lights, ac, radio wether i am at idle or wide open throttle.

 

My truck has the 2G alternator with the on board regulator. It has plugs that attach to the alternator. Some people have said the plugs come loose and can cause fires. If you have the 2G be aware that they can be clocked in different orientations. Make sure any plug ins are on the top or side of the alternator. If clocked wrong I could see a plug vibrating out. But mine have stayed tight and right because they are assisted by gravity. I do know that the same alternator was used on different vehicles and was clocked differently for them. So if you get a 2G replacement be sure to take your old one with you. Otherwise you could walk out with one that might not work well for you.

 

I wasn't going to mention the 2G, but, here's mine. You can see the newer ones have the intergrated power connector, I also show the old voltage reg. connector and new one. I used male/female blade terminals (under shrink wrap) to make it easier to replace in the future if needed.

 

The "1G" is the alternator with the external regulator. All these trucks used these type alternators till around 1986 when they went to the "2G" alternator with the internal regulator. Problem is, they got the great idea to use twin slip on connectors for the output connection and these can work loose and heat up. Not sure when the quit using the 2G and went to the 3G. Probably mid 90's.

 

Same, running a 90 amp 12si in my 77, because thats what came on the generator 460 (brackets). You can rebuild these yourself too

 

Great explanation. So does the connector issue exist with the 3G as well? I've got to clean up the wiring mess and might as well incorporate this at the time. Better/simpler?

 

Have you checked NAPA or auto parts stores to see what they have for pigtails, that would allow you to make up a new harness to the voltage regulator ?

Go to the store and talk to them. Hard to find on-line. To me anyways...

I found some 1 wire Alt's but they seem to be $250+

 

Notice on my 2G the power connector is part of the Alt, no more fire risk. I'll assume they have the same for the 3G ...? IDK.

 

No, the 3g is a safe simple set up.

 

3G wiring is pretty simple. My truck stopped charging for a time with the 3G alternator and I found Dorman pig tail 645-912 as a replacement.

Here's another good article on installing a 3G alternator.

https://mtg-next-web.default/how-to/...or-older-fords

 

Here's a post with 3G info and photos, for a 6 cylinder engine.
The information will still be helpful for other engines.
You can buy both plugs for the 3G alternator on eBay for under $20.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...or-swap-2.html

Jim

 

They went back to the big stud with the nut for the 3G output wire. They still use slip on plugs on the control wires, but they never give much trouble.