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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 04:40 PM
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valve cover spacers

Anyone use a valve cover extender to effectively raise the perimeter of the head and help stop oil seep? Tight motor no blow by but still getting a drip at the rear main and the rear corner of the valve cover.

On some SBC i have used the spacer, silicon it to the head to so the oil is not up as high on the gasket.

Milodon stamped steel covers.

Chris
 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 05:32 PM
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Wouldn't you use gaskets with those spacers?

Dont know about Milodon, but mine has Moroso chrome stamped steel, and out edge of lip is formed upwards where as I think OEM form downwards to capture the gasket, and I sometimes wonder if chrome is good with stickem stuff, but I keep them as the metal is thick and stiff. Gonna try a set of the rubber molded gaskets with steel or aluminum core, but haven't yet. I once used silicone on the cork, couple miles down the road had a fire from oil on the exhaust, so hurried home to my water hose. Napa sold me some white sealant, that stuff worked. Might yet paint the Ford ones I have had 35 years, try them out.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 08:53 PM
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What engine are you working on?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 11:57 PM
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Some of the aftermarket valve covers are a problem.

Forget the spacers, make sure your valve covers are completely straight, then take a new set of gaskets put TRS on both sides and snug them down. they won't leak, but you'll need a couple pry bars to get them off again.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 01:50 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by Rubiranch

What engine are you working on?
SECOND!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 09:08 AM
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i've been using the same Fel Pro set for years and they've been off and on. Cork with a steel sandwich.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Rubiranch
What engine are you working on?

400 Ford
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tbear853
Wouldn't you use gaskets with those spacers?

Dont know about Milodon, but mine has Moroso chrome stamped steel, and out edge of lip is formed upwards where as I think OEM form downwards to capture the gasket, and I sometimes wonder if chrome is good with stickem stuff, but I keep them as the metal is thick and stiff. Gonna try a set of the rubber molded gaskets with steel or aluminum core, but haven't yet. I once used silicone on the cork, couple miles down the road had a fire from oil on the exhaust, so hurried home to my water hose. Napa sold me some white sealant, that stuff worked. Might yet paint the Ford ones I have had 35 years, try them out.
You are correct, i have seen also seen them installed with silicone like the china wall.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 09:23 AM
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Anyone use Tmyer once piece rear main? This is my bigger drip. I am going to hook up a nano meter today and make sure i do not have excessive pressure.

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/1-...r-main-seal-2/

https://rumble.com/v6uozwr-track-bos...main-seal.html
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 09:31 AM
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I do remember those spacers on small block Chevys.
The problem is that now you have two valve cover gaskets to deal with instead of one.
Oil leaks have been a nightmare for me on my truck.
One thing for sure, I HATE the rubber gaskets.
Use a straight edge and make sure your valve cover gasket surface is straight and flat.
This last time I bought VICTOR REINZ 151053101 Set; Cork Rubber gaskets, these are the ones for your 400.
They are just like cork but the rubber seems like it made them stronger.
Another thing is valve covers torque specs is only 10 lb ft, that's not very much.
People have a tendency to over tighten them which just causes more leaks.
With these new cork/rubber gaskets no leaks.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 10:02 AM
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https://www.felpro.com/

https://bestgasket.com/

DIFFERING GRADES OF GASKETS AND MATERIALS

CHEAP GASKETS - IMPROPER INSTALL - POOR RESULTS
 
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Old Mar 7, 2026 | 11:58 PM
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Double gaskets for clearance or spacers with gaskets does equal twice the possible leaks.

Definitely a good idea to check your pressure, especially if you’re pulling a decent vacuum on the intake.

Im having a similar issue on an FE. Going to install new valve covers and gaskets, and try running an M.E. Wagner dual valve PCV valve.

Hopefully getting crankcase pressure under control, without sucking oil through the intake is possible, or pushing oil out everywhere else?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by motorsickle1130
Double gaskets for clearance or spacers with gaskets does equal twice the possible leaks.

Definitely a good idea to check your pressure, especially if you’re pulling a decent vacuum on the intake.

Im having a similar issue on an FE. Going to install new valve covers and gaskets, and try running an M.E. Wagner dual valve PCV valve.

Hopefully getting crankcase pressure under control, without sucking oil through the intake is possible, or pushing oil out everywhere else?
I hooked up a nanometer to the dipstick, dual breathers to the air cleaner, I could see ~1/2 inch water column fluctuation at 3000 rpm to idle.

Dipstick may not have been the best location because the disturbance of the air from the crank rotation but it did show there was no build up.

Pulling the motor today to fix the rear main.

Chris

 
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 06:57 PM
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I’d strongly recommend running a Pcv on the driver side cover, with the pass side routed to the air cleaner with at least 3/4 hose.

Check your vacuum at the intake, and if you’re pulling more than 12psi at idle, you’ll probably need to neck down a section of the tubing between Pcv and intake.

The 3/4”-1” hose for pass side will allow easy flow into the engine, and act as a pressure release if/when you get more blow by with low vacuum in the intake tract. That also makes it critical the breather baffles are installed and you have adequate clearance so pressure doesn’t increase at the breathers and pull excess oil mist into the intake.

It’s also a good idea to dig into the specifics of your oiling system. Maybe the return path is partially blocked, or maybe the engines pumping too much oil up top?
 
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