I did the valve covers over in late fall 2024 ....did the fuel injectors while I had everything apart. Cleaned and painted the covers. The valve cover
gaskets that were on were reasonably new so reused them. I didn't drive the truck before putting it to bed for the winter.

Well, got back home and fired it up to go for an MVI and she was a cloud of smoke. Pulled over to see what was going on and saw oil dripping from
the drivers side valve cover right onto the manifold.

So, that will need to come off and repaired. Should i just put a new gasket on this side? Should I be using RTV on the gasket to make it stick
to the valve cover before re-attempting the re-install?

 

What type of gasket did you use? I use what Ford used- rubber/silicone with a steel core like these

 

I believe it was the rubber coated cork style. this was done 7 months ago... I ran my finger around the perimeter of the valve cover and could feel the gasket..no bulges. anything is possible I guess.

So these type gaskets go on dry then?

 

Probably. Were there installation instructions?

 

the shop in ottawa did the valve cover gaskets just after I got the rig. I was working at the time. will look into the felpro silicone with the steel ring.

thx

 

Make sure there are no cracks in the metal around the bolt holes in the valve cover
The factory Ford metal and rubber gaskets do work well for years and years, if your valve covers were designed to use them
They must be perfectly flat to use those gaskets

 

honestly I did not inspect the bolt holes too closely when I took the covers off to clean and paint them looking for flatness or
any cracking. but will when I take the drivers side one off.

 

You are liable just to see a spot where you slipped the gasket
Rarely, do they crack, it is just something you check
I've seen it about 3 times in 45+ years of wrenching, once on my own car, damn thing would not stop leaking, finally saw the crack

 

I have a small welder I can use to repair any cracks, flatten with a dolly hammer and grind to uniform flatness. I'm assuming that is the fix for this if it is the case?

I used 13 ft lbs on the bolts torqueing them in a star pattern.

 

Yes, welding like that will work
13 sounds about right
I've never actually torqued one unless it said BMW on it, and was the size of a small table

 

Probably over torqued.
check valve cover flatness with a steel rule or straight edge.

ive only used cork, never put sealant on, never had a leak, hand tightened, ya get a feel for these things over time.

use a smaller torque wrench, 1/4 or 3/8 not a 3/4 drive.

 

I tend to shy away from silicone sealer and gaskets. Done right, the gasket will do the sealing. If you can't prepare the gasket surface properly, then it will leak.

As mentioned above, flat sealing surfaces are the trick. Clean/oil free surfaces too. To date, I am using the same valve cover gaskets on my 95 F250 that the factory installed. I have replaced the factory valve covers with aluminum 20+ years ago and I have had them off at least twice. If they are leaking, it's something I have not noticed.

Tighter is not better as mentioned above. It is an art where you do not have to use a torque wrench to put on a simple valve cover and have it not leak.

 

hopefully it's something simple like the bolt hole being missed on one of the gasket holes. will be tackling this on monday.

 

From my experience, don't waste your time with the cork gaskets or really any other ones besides the silicone steel core gaskets, they are pricey compared to a traditional set of gaskets but well worth it.

I used them on my oil pan and valve covers, even properly torqued they became oil soaked and just leaked. I picked this one up from the local parts store. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...r+gasket&pos=0

 

The rubber/cork ones installed from 2023 in ottawa are pretty new...hate to just trash them but will bite the bullet if the rubber cork ones leak. PITA having to take the intake off
for the passenger side as well (which is not leaking).