Unfortunately my replacement motorcraft alternator lug connector has failed. Poor crimp form the factory, gash in the insulation and no heat shrink. Then as a lil topper the stud on the alternator broke off. Appears there enough wire to put a new lug on.

Instead could I cap off the broken end and keep the terminal connected at the passenger battery as that line also runs the glow plugs/AIH (deleted). If so which battery do I run the new + wire to? For a 135 amp alternator what fuse block would you recommend? Personally would rather use a circuit breaker vs rolling with a spare fuse. Maybe there’s a reason besides cost none of the premade kits are set up with a circuit breaker…

Have also seen people adding a ground to the alternator bracket again which battery should I use or it doesn't matter? Have over 15 ft of extra 2/0 wire with plenty of lugs for materials.

Thanks

 

I seem to recall people running to the driver side battery to the alternator, but I've slept since then. It sounds like it would also be a good time for you to change the negative and positive lug connections at both batteries to the military style connections. I did this on the F350 and have the supplies to do the Excursion when I get time to do so. I still have the original alternator on the F350...putting out 14.4+- volts btw...and just looked into getting a higher amp 6.0L unit, just not sure I want/need that given it's a basic truck and I would need to cut/modify the bracket...

 

Exactly, just replaced the battery cables with military terminals. Only one remaining is the starter cable once I have extra time. Copper still looked good when I cut the terminal and put a lug on.

the amount of modification to the bracket took me about 2 mins running a dremel as I’m replacing the alternator w the same 6.0 style. If you don’t want to grind you could probably use 1 washer per bolt under the case and have clearance.

 

When I upgraded my alt/ wiring, I ran from alt to pass battery. some will run a new line to ea. Usually only high output alts add the ground from case to battery.

Retracted my recommendation due to Y2k's casualty...will be looking for my own ideas for fusing/ circuit breakers now.

 

Please be careful when using the two post MRBF fuse holder.

This component has been redesigned twice by Buss, the manufacturer.

Two prior designs have failed, for different reasons.

While I was careful to avoid the first design when purchasing, I was disappointed to find the second design failed, dramatically, even while not having any of the problems of the first design.

I removed the one that I had, and while I presented (rather than "recommended") my installation in the past, I would now specifically NOT recommend attaching any twin post MRBF holder to the B+ terminal on any alternator, or engine component subject to cyclic vibration.

The failure modality in the first design pertained to how the buss bar plate, stud posts, and insulator were formed, where the structural design was conducive to dead shorts within the holder.

The second design introduced a sharp L bend radius into the bottom conductive plate, which when combined with the modified insulator design, better isolated the fuses. However, it was at this bend radius where the second design failed, separating completely. In my case, it was a live open. (Both sides hot, but not connected, forcing all alternator output through original small gauge OEM charge wire).

I've been intending to do a write up on this, but time has not permitted.

 

when I bought my truck, it had a Leece-Neville alternator on it, and a heavy gauge wire to the Driver side battery.

IMO, it does not make any difference which battery you choose, as they are in Parallel with a very large gauge wire/cable.

Been working with electric stuff since 1958, and never found anyone that could prove differently.