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I have an original generator but I'm converting everything to 12v and I bought a single post alternator but on the original generator there are three wires and on the alternator there a single post and looks like a ground spot what do I do with the other wires now?
Take a look at this Video, I think it will help you. Don't forget you need to change all your bulbs to 12 volt and if you keep the OE gauges you'll have to run a reducer to them-
Not sure where the kit came from in the video but it looks like a good solution if you can find one for your engine. You will need a 12V battery and new battery cables to fit. Remember, you will now be running negative ground not positive ground. One-wire alternators have all the voltage regulation built-in internally to the alternator so no external devices are needed. Connect a ground wire to the stud on the alternator housing and connect the "HOT" wire stud to the battery. Your OEM regulator can be removed and wires removed or just taped off and secured. A fusible link or high amp fuse is a good idea in the line from the alternator to the positive battery terminal...if the alternator malfunctions you don't want to fry the wiring. I run either 4 or 8 ga wire from the alternator to the battery depending on the amperage of the alternator and the length of the run...the yellow wire the guy used in the video is TOO small. There may be other concerns regarding polarity on the coil and gauges, good luck.
... I run either 4 or 8 ga wire from the alternator to the battery depending on the amperage of the alternator and the length of the run...the yellow wire the guy used in the video is TOO small. ....
The yellow wire is just for exciter supply, most GM 10Si and 12Si use a 16 or 18 ga wire. 8 ga should be for the output.
These are a good way to add a fusible link in the system. This one is off a late-90's S10, almost all modern cars have them somewhere. Cheap at U-Pull. Provides a good place for connections, too.
The yellow wire is just for exciter supply, most GM 10Si and 12Si use a 16 or 18 ga wire. 8 ga should be for the output.
These are a good way to add a fusible link in the system. This one is off a late-90's S10, almost all modern cars have them somewhere. Cheap at U-Pull. Provides a good place for connections, too.
Ross, Where would you install this, close to the alternator or the fuse panel?
Mark
The only problem I see with using a fusible link with a one-wire alternator is that if the fusible link blows then sensing is lost to the voltage regulator, and the alternator will go full field and fry itself in short order. This would not be an issue with a three-wire alternator. Correct me if I'm wrong. This is why I installed an alternator cut-out relay on my one-wire installation.
Also, if you want to retain the function of your OE ammeter you have to re-route the new wire from your alternator in the reverse direction through the ammeter induction loop back to the starter relay or battery. This makes the ammeter read correctly with negative ground.
Ross, Where would you install this, close to the alternator or the fuse panel?
Mark
Originally Posted by Mixer man
The only problem I see with using a fusible link with a one-wire alternator is that if the fusible link blows then sensing is lost to the voltage regulator, and the alternator will go full field and fry itself in short order. This would not be an issue with a three-wire alternator. Correct me if I'm wrong. This is why I installed an alternator cut-out relay on my one-wire installation.
Also, if you want to retain the function of your OE ammeter you have to re-route the new wire from your alternator in the reverse direction through the ammeter induction loop back to the starter relay or battery. This makes the ammeter read correctly with negative ground.
The way my S10 is wired, the terminal block is about a foot from the battery. The left post has a large diameter cable from the battery and the alternator output wire on it. The right post has a ~6 ga wire that feeds the main electrical distribution panel (that has fuses for every circuit it feeds). The alternator is rated 100 amps, and has two wires as I recall (output and an exciter coming from the ignition switch). If the fusible link blows, the exciter won't see any voltage and the alternator shuts down. At a 175 amp rating, something seriously wrong has to be happening for the link to blow.
I don't know that a 1-wire will go full-field if it loses a connection to the battery? How could it?
The way my S10 is wired, the terminal block is about a foot from the battery. The left post has a large diameter cable from the battery and the alternator output wire on it. The right post has a ~6 ga wire that feeds the main electrical distribution panel (that has fuses for every circuit it feeds). The alternator is rated 100 amps, and has two wires as I recall (output and an exciter coming from the ignition switch). If the fusible link blows, the exciter won't see any voltage and the alternator shuts down. At a 175 amp rating, something seriously wrong has to be happening for the link to blow.
I don't know that a 1-wire will go full-field if it loses a connection to the battery? How could it?
Apologies. I misunderstood. I thought you meant to put the fusible link in the alternator output wire.
On internally regulated true self excited one-wire alternators the sense circuit that controls the field current is integral and senses voltage at the output terminal. Like when you start the engine and it draws down the battery voltage, the sense circuit sees that and increases field current proportionately to bring the battery back to nominal voltage, up to the rated output of the alternator. So in effect, the lower the voltage sensed at the output terminal, the higher the field current will be raised. If no voltage is sensed then the internal regulator will go to full field in an attempt to recover a load. If no load is produced the sense circuit can allow the alternator to exceed it's rated output. Larger alternators will have over current/voltage protection that automatically opens the field circuit at a pre set spec.
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