I've been fighting this problem for over 2 years. On hot days and while climbing hills the engine will start running rough, loose power and die. It has to set with the engine off for at least a couple of hours before it becomes drive-able again. I've replaced 20+ modules, the coil twice and just now the distributor. Still isn't fixed. Am I missing anything other the the ECU? I've been trying to find one of those for a couple of days now (F6TZ-12A650-AJA) since I'm stuck in Yuma because of this problem. Ford parts network shows 'Part Obsolete - 0 Available.' Can't find any information on part interchange. Anybody have any information?

 

Have you replaced the crank position sensor? The distributor contains the cam position sensor, so that is new. The thick film ignition module is mounted to the outside of the firewall with a large heat sink. It is a simple ignition system with known heat related issues. They do make a GM style HEI distributor that fits the 460.

 

Thanks for the reply.
It is the last of the 460's so it doesn't have a crankshaft sensor. I've replaced over 20 of those TFM's in the last couple of years. I can replace one and it still has heat/ignition problem. I even put a new black one on a few days ago when I replaced the distributor.

 

Just thinking out loud - heat could be dealing a blow to the electronics, especially if it's a cold joint that opens up, or something that is expanding/contracting.

I fought a rough idle issue on one a few months ago, turned out to be a bad capacitor in the PCM - and the repair was quick and affordable...check out the link in my earlier thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-2500-rpm.html

 

I saw that post. You certainly had a mess on your hands.
I agree that it's heat related. It's mounted to the firewall, under the dash above the brake pedal. On hot days it doesn't take long for it to turn my motorhome into a 12,000 pound boat anchor.

 

Yep - I had the doghouse cover off while doing other work, and was able to lay an old moving blanket over the engine, and basically lay on the floor/engine to get that PCM out....it sucks where they positioned it, especially when one is 6'8" and trying to weasel into a tight spot.

Once I got it out and pulled the covers, it was glaringly obvious which cap had failed - all the magic blue smoke had come out of it.

Given everything else you've done, it might be worth at least doing that check to confirm - beats sitting there in a big box that can't move.

 

Pull codes, what does it tell you?
Take the EEC-IV out, open the case, take pictures. Looking for blown/leaking capacitors.
Easy fix if that is the problem, quite common, varying issues. Capacitors are like pennies to dollars, and a little soldering.

 

It's not throwing any codes since I put a black tfm back in it. As for swapping out the caps, my soldering iron is in another state and I'm broke down in a parking lot in Yuma, AZ. Ah,the joys of the full-time rv lifestyle. 😉

 

Are you at least getting the 11 or the 111, meaning all clear, no codes?

Or are you not even getting that?

 

Don't know what it's showing. I threw in the towel yesterday and ordered a rebuilt ECU from a company up in WA. Supposed to be here in a couple of days.

 

Now it's developed a new problem. No power, getting hot, and it sounds like I have an industrial sized pan of Jiffy Pop under my dog house, cel is also on.
New ecu showed up and I got it installed. No cel, revs fine at part throttle. Go beyond part throttle and the popcorn sound comes back. Have replaced distributor, tfm, ecu, coil and coil wire. Timing was set at 12 degrees with new distributor. Am going to recheck it tomorrow to see if it slipped. After that I'm at a complete loss. I did take the old ecu apart and check the board. No burned traces or bad caps. If anyone is near Quartzsite, AZ and wants to check it out PM me.

 

Check the items that impact air flow as well - particularly the EGR can do many strange things. I realize it's likely hotter than the hubs of hell in AZ compared to OH, but are you able to run it with the doghouse removed, so you can try to narrow down the location of said noises?

Might want to make sure something related to the exhaust manifolds hasn't broken free - all that air pump plumbing that goes everywhere...

 

Does it have a catalytic converter? If so, this would be a symptom of a plugged cat.

 

Nope. No cat. Last year without

 

Yes, I can run it without the dog house for awhile. Going to be in the middle 90's late this week so will have limited time to do so though. Thanks for the egr suggestion. I'll see if any of the plumbing is broken. It did develop an exhaust leak recently so I need to address that somehow also.