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After getting my transmission mounted back i had trouble getting started back up, so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and test port (schrader valve was getting stuck). Ran for a couple of days then didn't turn back over. Changed fuel filter and put on a new rubber fuel line on the mechanical pump. Turned out, I made a mistake and left the bowl drain valve open, opened it after she didn't turn back on, found this out when I changed the fuel filter. I was led to the HPOP and reservoir, which was dry, so I replaced the anti-drain back valve. Still not starting. A friend of my friend mentioned "cracking" the fuel lines, but I haven't heard anything from them again. through searching google I came across a thread in this forum about bleeding the fuel system and someone mentioned on that thread that the fuel system bleeds itself and I've seen mention about cranking and resting, to not burn out the starter, for x time as well as the key on engine off (KOEO) method for bleeding the system.
I have no idea what to do or how to go about it. If anyone has any idea, please help.
It was suggested to me to check the injector o-rings. I'm less inclined to do so at the moment. However, the last time the o-rings failed on me, my truck still turned over and ran even after a year of sitting in another state. Should I check the injectors or is there something else I'm missing? Keep in mind, that I'm learning as I go and at the same time, things are needing to be replaced.
Are you getting a wait to start light when the key is first turned on? Any smoke from the tail pipe when cranking over? If no wait to start light, replace fuse #22 in the under hood fuse panel, and remove the wire to the fuel bowl heater.
Are you getting a wait to start light when the key is first turned on? Any smoke from the tail pipe when cranking over? If no wait to start light, replace fuse #22 in the under hood fuse panel, and remove the wire to the fuel bowl heater.
The click you hear is probably the glow plug relay engaging. Do you know anyone who would let you plug your IDM into their truck? If doing so and their truck will not start and run, the IDM is shot. It might not hurt to remove your IDM and give it a good shake while listening for water splashing around in it. Where the IDM is located, it has been known to get moisture in it.
The click you hear is probably the glow plug relay engaging. Do you know anyone who would let you plug your IDM into their truck? If doing so and their truck will not start and run, the IDM is shot. It might not hurt to remove your IDM and give it a good shake while listening for water splashing around in it. Where the IDM is located, it has been known to get moisture in it.
I don’t know anyone here that has the same year model. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow. Should I test the engine wiring harness while I’m at it?
Truck doesn't have to be the same year or model, as long as it has the 7.3 in it. 94.5 threw 97 are the easiest to get to the IDM. The 99-2003 models have the IDM mounted under the drivers side inner fender liner. There have been reports of the engine wiring harness breaking where it drapes over the valve cover, myself, I have not seen that yet.
Truck doesn't have to be the same year or model, as long as it has the 7.3 in it. 94.5 threw 97 are the easiest to get to the IDM. The 99-2003 models have the IDM mounted under the drivers side inner fender liner. There have been reports of the engine wiring harness breaking where it drapes over the valve cover, myself, I have not seen that yet.
Good deal. I’ll give that a shot. I know a man with one that’s in the 2000 range.
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