When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello new here I started a budget build f-250 with a v10 and I figured why not do a thread on it. It’s my first time trying this so let’s see how it goes. I’m gonna need to get better with taking pictures.
So got the transfer case and transmission out this morning, new shift motor on the t-case new front pump seal to go in next on the new to me trans. Then it’s getting back in. I’ll be posting my cost list in a little bit. And my plan all wrote out. We will see how this all works out.
Here’s the current price list for the truck I’ll be adding to this as time goes on.
Any way here’s the current plan all wrote out.
Front suspension:
Got 4” lift springs from zone off road, oem leafs are 56” long. They should have plenty room for flex. Plan to move front leaf spring forwards 2” and the axle and extra 1.5” forward with the ord zero rate spring. That brings the axle alignment pin to 25” from the front of the frame.
If I remove the front bumper and any extra tabs and unnecessary stuff. Then rear mount the radiator, I should have room for a winch and cross Member between the spring pitches. To keep the approach angle tight tight tight. Got some 10” travel rancho shocks off Amazon for $48 a pop. Should let the leafs flex plenty. Limit straps and bump stops are getting added on for extra reliability. Steering hopefully will be easy clear frame rail and make new mounts.
Rear suspension:
Finnish front suspension to get ride hight first!!! Gonna keep it pretty basic for now shackle flip and 6” boomerang shackle. The plan is to move the axle 25” forward to shorten the wheel base to 115.50”. Using the ord zero rate move the axle back 1.5” to get around a 117” wheel base. I think that would be good for some of the tighter trails in western mt. I was also planing on running the leafs turned around with the short arm towards the rear of the truck. With an anti wrap bar.
Rock sliders and Bellypan.
2x6 rock slider full length of cab and 3” past cab. Cut 5” off the bottom of the door and door seal and fit 2x6 into body 2x2 dom mounts slider to frame.
This is how she sits at the end of this Saturday. Might come in the shop tomorrow and try to get the trans in so I can start a mount for it. Also I only get a hour or so a day to work on it so it’s gonna be dragged out for a little bit. But hope to get a big chunk done before April so I can do some testing come spring.
Looking good. One thing I would do is switch from esof to manual shift, because I have found esof usually only fails when you really need 4x4.
I have done a little research. This was a little more budget and time friendly for me. This is a pure off road truck so manual shift will be required at some point. I’ve been looking for a Forum that would be similar to mine but I think I’m doing something a little out of the box.
That is a great project truck. You have an awesome shop too. You seem to get some excellent prices so far. Front and rear axle lockers ?
rear is getting welded front is still a Dana 50 so no internal stuff on the front yet. But I am gonna start doing high steer arms and what ever I can swap over to a 99-04 Dana 60. I am tempted to see how long a 50 will last with 35s.
Made about an inch of clearance. Cut it out with a grinder and persuaded it with a sledge.
Some numbers before I mess with the suspension and chopping frame off. Bottom of t-case to floor 19.5” Frame at t-case to floor 22” Frame at front body mount 23 7/8”
Gonna bolt in a trans mount and put the fuel system back together and make sure the trans I just put in it’s solid. 🤞get the engine running good then start removing the coolent system up front and the front suspension. Hope to get that done next week.
If I could find a 4wd F250 with a v10 like that for 700 bucks, I would make it a farm rig/DD and not a crawler. But no worries, I am along for the ride on this project. If the coolant system is good and works, why move it, (just for front winch room). I would figure how to high mount the winch and leave the coolant system alone. IMO moving it can lead to all sorts of cooling issues, like burping it and just making it work/cool right. This came this way (with the rad and trans cooler) in the back and it is a PITA at times with the hard pipe routing to get the coolant from the engine and to the back end.
Do not forget to do a front u-bolt flip. Interior roll cage...tied to the rocker panels (that are deleted) for rock sliders... all tied together and to the frame.
Free ideas: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/13...ld-a-roll-cage
If I could find a 4wd F250 with a v10 like that for 700 bucks, I would make it a farm rig/DD and not a crawler. But no worries, I am along for the ride on this project. If the coolant system is good and works, why move it, (just for front winch room). I would figure how to high mount the winch and leave the coolant system alone. IMO moving it can lead to all sorts of cooling issues, like burping it and just making it work/cool right. This came this way (with the rad and trans cooler) in the back and it is a PITA at times with the hard pipe routing to get the coolant from the engine and to the back end.
Do not forget to do a front u-bolt flip. Interior roll cage...tied to the rocker panels (that are deleted) for rock sliders... all tied together and to the frame.
Free ideas: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/13...ld-a-roll-cage
Sadly no title on the truck and radiator is leaking like Niagara Falls. The shop I work at “I’m the tire guy” races 4400 class cars and is familiar with rear mount rads and I will be asking plenty of questions. Got the junk yard 4r100 in but no forward or reverse yet still. Gonna go back in and put a hour in it and see if I can get it moving.
No title rig...just like the "sketchy" black Bronco. Ok yea for sure a 4400 class car guy should be able to get you super squared away with a remote cooling system.
I had to Google it...The 4R100 is a heavy-duty 4-speed automatic transmission produced by Ford (1998–2005) for trucks and SUVs, often paired with 7.3L Powerstroke diesels. Known as a durable, "bulletproof" unit, it handles up to 1,000 ft-lbs of torque, with common issues including delayed engagement and harsh 1-2 shifts.
Key Details for the 4R100 Transmission:
Vehicles: Primarily used in 1999–2003 Ford F-150 through F-550, E-Series vans, Expedition, and Excursion.
Lifespan & Reliability: Generally considered very durable, often lasting well over 150,000–200,000 miles with proper maintenance, though it is prone to overheating when towing heavy loads.
Common Problems:
Delayed Engagement: Often occurs in both forward and reverse gears.
Hard Shifts: Particularly harsh in lower gears.
Transmission Overheating: Can lead to internal damage.
Neutral Safety Switch Failure: Causes issues with starting.
Performance Capability: While stock units are strong, modified versions (e.g., with SunCoast Performance) can handle high-horsepower applications.
So tomorrow morning the engine diagnosing will begin its got a pretty nasty bog under load definitely a miss on one or more cylinders. Sadly the obd2 port is about as useful as a obd1 so no cylinder specific codes. Dam!
I also grabbed some cheap 39.5 iroks and I’m gonna try groove and run tubes for snow wheeling.
