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I posted a while back about advice for this build and have finally started. It’s going to be a slow process but I’ve got the truck torn down for the most part. Mustang II IFS and explorer 8.8 with TCI 4 link for the rear. Chassis work has begun.
I need to start boxing the frame. I’ve got a bunch of leftover 1/4” plate to use but was a bit surprised how thin and light the factory frame is. Any reason to not use 1/4” other than weight? I’m thinking of boxing basically the whole front and mid section basically from the radiator support to the rear crossmember where the 4 link brackets attach. Seems like a lot of plates I see for sale are only 1/8”.
The TCI 4 link lowers the rear about 4”, does this generally require c notching? Everything is going to get mocked up but good to have a plan going forward.
You are doing pretty much what I did. I used 3/16 inch I believe for the boxing plates, but it could be 1/4 inch. I went all the way to the cross member bar that supports the coilover shocks, with just a small gap between the two. I'm pleased with the results. Something I failed to consider when I boxed my frame rails, was those items, such as the running board mounts, battery box, etc., that were held on with a bolts and nuts, were now going to be a problem. I solved it by drilling the original holes all the way through the backing plates. I believe if I had it to do again, I would have welded nuts on the inside of the frame, before I boxed them.
As for the notching the frame rails, I haven't done that yet. I'm hoping I can get away with avoiding that. We'll see if that's going to be possible.
Cool. Did you leave the crossmember that the 4 link brackets attach too and just box on both sides, front and rear?
Good thought on the running board nuts.
The factory frame is .150 inches thick. It is light. I used 3/16 plate (.188) cold rolled steel, to box my frame. I also made a 3/16 channel within the original channel. It is way over doing the frame, but it is very strong.
I used 1/8" plate to box my frame. Key is making sure the frame is straight, square, etc. and then well braced so it doesn't change when welding. I also added a 1/4" nut every 12" on the inside of the boxing plates and drilled a hole through the plate. That gives me lots of places to put small bolts to hold stuff, wiring, hoses etc. And I am running 400 hp and it holds up well.
I should probably blast the frame before I box it to remove the rust/paint. Any input on coatings for the inside of the boxed sections? I’m not really keen on powder coating the frame as it renders modification or repair difficult.
Before you box it I'd highly recommend you check and measure the frame for twist, diamond and square. Once boxed, if it's not within spec, there's no fixing it.
Awesome idea, it was on my mind but good to hear. I was going to use 4 adjustable stands to get everything level and plumb. Hopefully it’s square so I don’t have to mess too much with that. These frames flex like crazy in stock form, I can only image how much they sway taking a corner.
You can check for square by cross measuring from given points side to side and compare the measurements. Ideally you'll be within 1/16" on any measurement under 100". Over 100" you can have 1/8" fudge factor.
This is not a truck frame or the measurements you're looking for, just an example of how it's done, in case you or someone else reading didn't know. Pick the same points on each side and measure for comparison.
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