Anyone here put Carli leaf springs on?

Man its a bit tough to get the old springs off and new ones on by yourself. But after I finally wrestle the first one into position it won't fully seat on the perch. After taking a closer look, the centering pin on the pack looks much bigger than the hole on the perch. Now the hole in the factory block has plenty of room but these are suppose to eliminate the factory block. The hole on the perch on the other hand is very shallow, for only a slightly protruding domed pin. The Leaf packs pins aren't domed and stick out a decent amount. But I'll need to double check the diameter next time I'm home.

Assuming it just needs a deeper hole, is it feasible just to use a hand drill?

 

I would call and ask the manufacture of the leaf springs before I did anything like that.

I remember when I did mine it was a very precise tight fit but it didn't need drilling. (Different brand.) Also a tip on installing them as I did mine by myself. I went to Costco and got a nice ratchet set of tie dies to help position my leafs exactly
where I needed them to go during install. They were the nice bigger wider straps, think they're "CAT" branded ratchet straps.

 

I had a little bit of time before work today, took the other leaf spring free of the axle on the other side, and checked measurements...

The alignment pin between factory springs and Carli springs seem to be the same. The difference is the factory springs sit on the block, but the Carli springs eliminate the block and sit right on the perch on the axle. The factory block is hollow, so the pin sticks right through. The perch is solid and recess is not nearly deep enough to accommodate the pin.

There was a lot of rust and swelling of the metal on the perch, so I hit it pretty hard with a needle scaler just to make sure the pin recess wasn't actually deeper than appeared, but it didn't really help the issue. I got everything from CJC and they've been pretty helpful with questions so I may shoot them an email. Was hoping since Carli seemed pretty popular that someone would have done the same as I am doing, but maybe folks with these older models aren't checking in here as much. I waited pretty long to put the suspension kit on... it just worked well enough stock I left it alone until suspension parts started failing. Got my value out of the factory parts... every single ball joint made it to 200k miles. Only front end parts I have changed in that time are one tie rod end, steering stab and shocks, and 1 wheel bearing (probably overheating stuck brake caused some of that). If only the spring buckets wouldn't have rotted to pieces.

Reptar... good idea using ratchet straps to help pull and align things. Sometimes you need think smarter instead of working harder!

 

Clamp the pack tightly on either side of the center pin and remove it. Determine necessary height of head. Find lathe. Chuck pin in lathe. Face to length, chamfer slightly. Reinstall.

Also have a big (18 or 24") all-sixteenths to "twist" the pack. Sometimes you need the center pin to swing left/right a touch. Just slip it over the pack and push down or lift.

Ratchet straps in practice:

 

Please post the outcome. I am strongly considering a Carli suspension. What kit are you using? I'm looking at the 2.5" leveling kit with the Deaver rear mini-pack setup(I believe the same as Carli, re-branded but a little cheaper). I would not have thought any fitment issues would arise, so that is a concern, but I am more interested in the ride quality, I want a better ride.

 

I tried to take a pic.... the 'hole' there in the perch is the same size around as the alignment pin. But you can see its kind of domeed - the pin with straight walls only goes in like a 1/16" of an inch, not nearly enough as the pin is like 3/8 deep at least (I forget exactly).

I shot CJC an email, we'll see what they say. I wonder if a dremel with some kind of grinding stone and some careful work might open it up enough?

WWR.. I don't have a lathe, wish I did, but I fear cutting the head of the alignment pin down would leave it maybe too small based on how small that hole is. Its also holding the leaf pack together right?

PROSTOCK.. Backcountry 2.0 leveling kit with full progressive Deaver springs. I'm not sure what 'minipack' is, is that just like an add-a-leaf? If it ditches the factory block then it could be an issue like mine, if it reuses the factory block, then no prob since the hole is clear through in the blocks.

 

You've got corrosion in there. Dig/carve/grind it out.

 

Well yes, I have corrosion on approximately 100% of everything on the underside of my truck... approximately... maybe higher

Though I have made sure to clean out the hole before resorting to posting about it for advice (mainly just the hole to see if it was the same as the other side, I'll have to work a little more to clean up the whole perch)... Even broke out the big pneumatic needle scaler, maybe you can see the tiny divots in the sides of the hole where the scaler dented the steel slightly. I can assure its solid steel there, not just rust or flaking metal. Perhaps the metal has somehow swelled into the hole. But both sides are identical with pretty evenly domed holes. If it was just corrosion or swelling I wouldn't think it to be exactly the same on both sides. Anyhow, digging and carving are out but grinding I could probably do, I assume you are referring to grinding with a dremel or die grinder... what kind of bit would give me the best chance of success? I have a pneumatic die grinder somewhere but haven't used it in at least half dozen years and don't think I have any bits for it.

 

I'd start with a 135* drill bit. Got any old router bits? Poor man's end mill. Otherwise a carbide bur

 

will be difficult to drill that hole....you would need to center punch it pretty good so that the drill does not wander.


another option would be to use a barrel grinding bit which has a flat tip with no grind on the flat side and is round with a cutting edge on the round side. this will let you walk the edges to see if what you are looking at is just compressed resut.

 

Got her taken care of. Got a carbide burr bit for the die grinder. It did appear to be corrosion that somehow got pretty solid... after a couple minutes with the die grinder to where I got it maybe 1/8-1/4" deeper all the sudden it punched through to an open cavity underneath. Unless my axle perch piece just wasnt cast right or something. Took a few more minutes to clean up the sides so the pin would fit inside it. Anyhow, those carbide bits work like a charm.

So on to the next issue. Looks like Carli sent me the wrong U bolts. They are way too narrow.

A question if anyone happens to know... did the U bolt orientation change in the 2011+ models to the U going top down over the leaf springs from the U going bottom up around the axle? The kit I got was marked 2011+ and my truck is a 2009... I wonder if they changed the U bolts.

 

Did you get your issues sorted? I am looking at these springs and wonder if I would have similar issues (rusty truck)

 

Yes, for the holes not big enough issue read the post above yours.

To answer my own question about the U-bolts, yes they did change 2011+ models and did not fit my 2009. CJC was quick to send out the right parts and a return shipping label for the 2011+ U bolts. They have been very good to deal with.

My truck is up and running. Though short lived... back to my garage waiting for body mounts now. After getting it running again my body mounts just disintegrated and now its clunking and rough. Got all new SB silicone mounts ready to go just waiting for a free day.