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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

1 wire alternator

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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 03:40 PM
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1 wire alternator

Gotta question and I am ignorant when it comes to wiring. I have a Holley Sniper 2300 EFI on my truck currently. Im thinking about replacing the old alternator with a 1 wire alternator. Will it affect the wiring on the EFI system? Will adding the alternator throw off anything in the EFI. Are there any additional modifications that I will have to do or is it as easy as a plug and play? Is the voltage regulator null and void at that point?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 04:31 PM
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Ive never used a 1 wire alternator before. Ive done one swap with a 3g alternator on a 72 f250 but without EFI.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 06:30 PM
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Some of those 1 wire require higher rpm to activate them. With any efi system the voltage must be good with little to no voltage drop. So as long as you have a good connection to the battery source you should be fine. Now if your alternator does not putout enough at low rpm it may impact the efi.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 06:42 PM
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The one wire alternator, i believe, will require additional wiring due to the original wiring.

I would suggest the 3g alternator.

If I remember there was a member who did the 1 wire alternator and then wasn’t getting power to the cab.

I feel like this part would be an issue with a one wire. I don’t know this for sure as I don’t know much about them.
I feel like this part would be an issue with a one wire. I don’t know this for sure as I don’t know much about them.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 07:28 PM
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Some 1 wire alternators require rpm above idle to charge. That's the kind that was on my truck when I bought it. Watching the voltage drop as I waited out red lights bothered me to no end. I replaced it with a 3g alt and now it holds over 13v at idle. It's basically only 1 additional wire from a switched source which you can get from the old regulator harness .
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by davelj
Some 1 wire alternators require rpm above idle to charge. That's the kind that was on my truck when I bought it. Watching the voltage drop as I waited out red lights bothered me to no end. I replaced it with a 3g alt and now it holds over 13v at idle. It's basically only 1 additional wire from a switched source which you can get from the old regulator harness .
Add me to the list recommending the 3G alternator.
It will put out 60 amps at idle, meaning no voltage fluctuating at different RPMs.
A constant voltage output at all RPMs and loads.
It also easier to find a replacement alternator if you break down on the road.
Jim
 
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by blue68f100
Some of those 1 wire require higher rpm to activate them. With any efi system the voltage must be good with little to no voltage drop. So as long as you have a good connection to the battery source you should be fine. Now if your alternator does not putout enough at low rpm it may impact the efi.
Ok Thanks. Would I have to increase the RPM setting in the EFI Wizard?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 08:32 AM
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Sounds like the 3g Alternator would be a better solution with the uncertainty of the 1 wire correct?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 10:35 AM
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I am running a 3g alternator (96 mercury sable, $20 at junk yard) with a Holley Sniper EFI and have not problems, actually runs better after conversion.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JPG37
I am running a 3g alternator (96 mercury sable, $20 at junk yard) with a Holley Sniper EFI and have not problems, actually runs better after conversion.
I think mine was $35 from the JY and it came out of a 94 Taurus with the cables and mega fuse. I did reclock the face of the alternator and used a thin washer as a shim to clear the head on the 390fe.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 11:49 AM
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If you decide to go with the GM 1 wire alternator, make sure the kick in rpm is less than the idle rpm on your efi setup. Increasing the idle speed is usually not a good idea.

Everything you need to convert to a 3G alt can be found in a local wrecking yard, but a GM 1 wire is an aftermarket part. Chances of finding one used is pretty slim.
Neither alt is compatible with the Ford amp meter or charging light without some work. I chose to replace the charging light on my truck with a led voltmeter. I found one on Amazon that fit in the same hole. It's a simple hookup, just needing a switched hot wire and ground.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by davelj
If you decide to go with the GM 1 wire alternator, make sure the kick in rpm is less than the idle rpm on your efi setup. Increasing the idle speed is usually not a good idea.

Everything you need to convert to a 3G alt can be found in a local wrecking yard, but a GM 1 wire is an aftermarket part. Chances of finding one used is pretty slim.
Neither alt is compatible with the Ford amp meter or charging light without some work. I chose to replace the charging light on my truck with a led voltmeter. I found one on Amazon that fit in the same hole. It's a simple hookup, just needing a switched hot wire and ground.
Good catch. I did have my ammeter converted to a voltmeter from Rocketman.
 
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