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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Rear slider window

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Old Jan 27, 2026 | 02:30 PM
  #16  
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Probably near 15 years ago I realized I hadn't used the slider in my '77 in years as I was tinting the glass that day, It had leaked between the glass sections if run through a car wash too. I carefully put a pop rivet in the frame where would lock it shut, sealed joints with clear silicone, and removed the plastic latch. I do have a new plastic latch, and new metal latch if I decide to remove the silicone and pop rivets. I could have locked it shut with two wooden strips.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2026 | 02:55 PM
  #17  
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I just re-installed the slider in my 75 highboy. It did not have this plastic piece. I wonder how many aftermarket sliders were installed from the factory or dealer installed. This truck was in the family since 77. It has always had the topper.
im. not certain how well my install is, the gasket doesn't appear to cover all the way on the body. I'll mess with it some more. I did not use any sealant.
One video i saw from precision did recommend sealant on the front glass.




 
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 08:19 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by nutter3
I just re-installed the slider in my 75 highboy.


That’s sweet how the original aluminum frame holds up over the years compared to the 80-96 metal frames.

Did you have to replace anything else beside the big window gasket? Like in the slider.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 11:01 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by HertzHound
Did you have to replace anything else beside the big window gasket? Like in the slider.
I know, was not asked of me ..... but I had noticed mine was showing wear in the fabric of the channel inserts, but that is to be expected and is pretty universal as I recall. Once the aluminum strips that are glued to the inner most edges of the two sliding panes upon which the latch is mounted came loose ... but a good cleaning after scraping the old glue off let fresh epoxy grab hold and hold them on. The aluminum is not really bare ... is thickly anodized, so it holds up to weather really well. I have considered sanding and polishing the face surface ...but then the bare aluminum would likely tarnish such that one would need to repeat often, so I never have.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 02:52 PM
  #20  
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From: Kenai
Originally Posted by HertzHound
That’s sweet how the original aluminum frame holds up over the years compared to the 80-96 metal frames.

Did you have to replace anything else beside the big window gasket? Like in the slider.
I did replace the little gasket holding the side glass in and I tried to replace some of the felt sliders. I couldn't find the correct width felt that didn't have adhesive. This frame was riveted together. I had to reinstall with some skinny bolt and nuts.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2026 | 06:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HertzHound
That’s sweet how the original aluminum frame holds up over the years compared to the 80-96 metal frames.

Did you have to replace anything else beside the big window gasket? Like in the slider.
I wish I could have found one of the OEM parts for that very reason. I missed out a few years ago when dude who had a huge lot of NOS windows and was selling them for $250. If I knew how difficult it is to find one in good condition I would have bought two the minute I saw the ad. Everything for sale now is in crappy condition and the seller wants $400+ for it. No thanks.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2026 | 10:09 AM
  #22  
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I took out the rear slider to replace the felt in the slider rails. There weren't any plastic pieces on the top of it, This in on my 79 Trailer Special
 
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Old Jan 30, 2026 | 10:06 AM
  #23  
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Hey guys. I think I found a source for the felt channels if you're rebuilding these slider windows. I was on FB in the dentside forum, and someone mentioned to go to an RV dealer and that they sell the felt for RV slider windows. Google turned up many possibilities, one of them was this:
https://www.rubbertherightway.com/i-...waApOZEALw_wcB
I hope to find the right one once I take the window apart. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 07:33 PM
  #24  
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This what I used for the slider channel,
Glass Run Channel - cut to length

Same stuff that that came out.( not my window, ford-truck.com pic)
 

Last edited by 460me; Jan 31, 2026 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2026 | 10:18 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for posting that. It'll help others who are doing the work/project.
Even though my rear sliding window has the plastic insert on top, I think/hope that I can make it water tight. I'll post photos when I do the work, of what I did to achieve water tightness.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 01:40 PM
  #26  
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I wanted to avoid taking the slider window apart, but I don't know if I'll be able to do that and be assured that it won't leak. Before, when it rained, I would find water inside the cab behind the seat. I want to make sure that is not happening again, but am not sure that I need to rebuild the window to make it water tight. What do you guys say?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2026 | 04:22 PM
  #27  
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Can someone help me get oriented with the rubber seal? It seems that the metal ridge around the window opening goes in the narrow groove and that the window or slider goes inside the wider groove, but which side of the rubber faces the outside?

One side of the groove is wider than the other. Which side faces outward?
One side of the groove is wider than the other. Which side faces outward?

 

Last edited by F-250 restorer; Feb 27, 2026 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2026 | 11:19 AM
  #28  
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I cleaned up my slider rear window and got a new rubber, and tried to install it several times, each time with the rubber in different position. It was impossible. At each top corner, there was zero space to pull the rubber through.
I can't understand. That window was in for 30 years. How could it not fit now? The only explanation is that the rubber is different. And I don't know what rubber was in there or where to get it.

You know, I have a love hate relationship with LMC. They want $360 for a new rear slider. With tax, that's $400. And of course the wonderful people at LMC want $100 postage, bringing the total to $500. That was a slap in the face and I moved on to another retailer.
Another LMC example that proves we're getting ripped off by them: I need the small rubber stops for my gas filler doors. LMC wants $5 for a pair, plus postage. Amazon has them, 6 for $5, and free postage. I can't image what the mark up is for those rubber stops, maybe 600%?
 

Last edited by F-250 restorer; Mar 1, 2026 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2026 | 06:27 PM
  #29  
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I’m assuming you tried installing the window from the outside, using a pull string and some WD-40 for lube?
I also got my rubbers from LMC and had no issues, but that was probably 4 or 5 years ago, and they sat in the shop til last summer. I’d also laid them out in the summer sun for a bit; helped a lot.

(Just an aside, and unsolicited commentary; Unfortunately with LMC I feel like it’s the cost of doing business. I know they source their stuff from elsewhere, same as us, but they do provide the convenience of having it in one place. Compare their carb or EFI prices to Summit; they get to pay markup too. They’re also based in the USA with average folks working the warehouse, not people motivated by fear of getting fired like Amazon.)

Ive definitely had the same complaints and more of LMC or NPD, but we’re definitely better having them around than not… usually, lol.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2026 | 10:27 AM
  #30  
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The window came out of this truck. Now it will not fit. The only difference is the rubber.

Does anyone know of another type of rubber for out rear windows?
 
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